A Vintage Games Table Restored – Could it be Federal?

FOR SALE: $300

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We produce and sell our brand of chalk-style paint called Missouri Limestone Paint Company. We paint furniture, among other things, like jewelry boxes and shoes and small decor, but sometimes we don’t paint.

Our latest project we lovingly brought back its original glory. It came to us in very good condition structurally and physically everywhere except on the top and the flip top. Someone, sometime, somewhere spilled something on it and it took off the finish in several areas. There was also a water spot.

We wanted to preserve this piece, so we went to our go to product – Howard Restor-A-Finish. We do not sell this product but love it for restoration projects like this. We do sell their Chalk-tique line of wax for our painted pieces as we love the type of waxes in this product which includes carnuba wax which produces a hard finish, the ease of applying and buffing it. Although packaged as a wax for chalk-style painted furniture, the Chalk-tique dark wax worked as a beautiful finish on this piece.

We have done some research and have found similar pieces online ranging from $300 – $10,000. Wouldn’t the high end be nice? Lol. But seriously, we would love to identify it so we can find a value and offer it to a collector who would appreciate the beauty, quality, age, character, and practical use of this beautiful piece of furniture. We am not sure, but believe the detail is inlaid, not painted. And yes, it has a few flaws, but the character flaws are just a part of its history.

Update: I have narrowed this piece down, due to the fact the screws have been identified as machine made in the 20th century, as a high quality 20th century reproduction, possibly the Federal style, but still a valuable piece.

As pictures say a thousand words, we will let pictures tell this story. View the photos below and then click on the blog link below them to see a blog post by Kevin Lee Jacobs “Antique Game Tables and Why I Love Them!”

Comparing before and after:

Kevin Lee Jacob’s Blog Post “Antique Game Tables and Why I Love Them”

Exciting News! We are now the proud owners of Missouri Limestone Paint Company!!

We are Sharon and Danny Sumner. facebookcoverpost_03_18_19 We own a company called SharSum TEK, LLC, dba SharSum Paint (established 2015) and as of March, 2019, we purchased Mussouri Limestone Paint Company from founders Scottie Snider and Randy Woods.  We will continue dba Missouri Limestone Paint Company which produces a chalk-style paint as well.

The name SharSum (Share Some) is a play on words using Sharon Sumner’s name. Sharon is an educator, retired from the public school system and still teaching online classes for an area university. Throughout her career she loved “sharing some” Technology, Education, and Knowledge …..and has now carried that over into the field of chalk-style painting. She still loves learning, researching and sharing what she has learned about painting furniture and the techniques involved then sharing some of that knowledge through this Facebook page, painting groups, the blog on SharSum Paint’s website https;//sharsumpaint.com, and teaching classes, sharing her knowledge, on chalk-style painting. Sharon’s husband, Danny, is fully involved as well with several areas of the business including preparation, sanding, painting, finishing, teaching classes, accounting, creating, and most of all……heavy lifting!

SharSum Paint does not have a store front. We do, however, sell Missouri Limestone Paint Company chalk-style paint along with Howard’s Chalk-tique light and dark waxes and Varathane water-based polyurethane in four area Missouri stores for the chalk-style enthusiasts’ convenience. It is also available in an Antique Mall in Arkansas.  We are proud to announce our paint will soon be available online as well.

Why did we decide to use and sell Limestone Paint Company chalk-style paint when there are other chalk-style paints to consider?

1. It is a Missouri based company.

2. Pricing – reasonable prices for quality paint

3. A wide variety of color choices

4. A quality chalk-style paint is available locally – and now, since purchasing the company, we will be offering a shipping option so everyone can experience this quality paint.

Missouri Limestone Paint Company chalk-style paint is available in the following locations at this time:

*Gift Emporium & CAFE’  – 228 South Highway 185 – Sullivan, MO  63080
*Half-Crocked Antiques – 75 Highway C – Bourbon, MO 65441
*Spirals Art Gallery & Studio– 100 Madison – Cuba MO  65453
*Midwest Trading Post – 411 Market Street, Hermann, MO 65041
*Down Home Creations – Nat’s-Niques Booth -108 E. Stephenson Ave., Harrison Arkansas 72601
Visit our website for more details on locations and pricing: https://sharsumpaint.com/locations-for-purchasing-paint/
Visit our website to view our Color Choices: https://sharsumpaint.com/paint-color-chart/
Feel free to contact SharSum Paint: sharsumpaint@gmail.com, message us on Facebook, or text us at (six three six-388-3690) for more information on locations for purchasing paint, details on classes, custom painting, or just any questions you may have. We would happily “SharSum” information with you.
Be sure to follow us on the following sites. You can also keep up-to-date on what is happening at SharSum Paint through:
Our Colors Board on Pinterest showcases our painted projects: goo.gl/onK5SD
Contact us today for a free quote if you’d like us to paint one of your pieces or a piece we may have in inventory. Thanks!

An Experiment with Sunnyscopa Film-Free Waterslide Laser Decal Paper Type A

I have tried Sunnyscopa’s laser decal waterslide paper for laser printers with film before and like it very much. In fact, I used it on my latest jewelry box and the images are beautiful!

So, I was curious what the film-free was like. With the film-free you remove the film and are left with only the ink.

I must say, my experiment worked beautifully.

These are pretty much the materials I used in my experiment. I did also have a bottle of alcohol ready for cleaning any left over glue.

The film-free laser paper comes with a small bottle of glue. I also wanted to see how it would work if I used Varathane water-based Polyurethane instead of glue.

Both methods worked well, but I think the method of using the glue that comes in the package won out. The alcohol did an awesome job of cleaning up the left over glue. I’m not sure what kind of glue it is, but it is not gooey at all. It was actually rather thin and painted on easily.

The Type A paper needs to be heat set either with a hair dryer, a microwave, or the oven. That was fine with me. I use a hair dryer a lot to speed up the drying process and it worked fine in my experiment. I used a board I had painted, glazed and had sealed with poly just as I would have on a jewelry box or piece of furniture.

The first thing I did was print out just a paper copy to make sure I had my sizes right and that I printed a reverse image as with this process the printed side goes face down. Then I printed my image on the glossy side of the paper.

I then followed the directions on the package.

1. I cut out my image to transfer leaving a little margin so I could peel away the film later.

2. I then soaked the cut out in warm water for 5 seconds, took it out and let it sit for 60 seconds.

3. While it was sitting for 60 seconds I painted a layer of glue on the area I wanted the transfer to go. I learned that next time I should apply it a little heavier than I did on this one.

4. Then I turned the transfer over and put it where I wanted on my board and slid it off. I started drying it right away, first with cool heat and then high heat, pressing down any bubbles that formed. I heat set it for about 3 minutes.

You can see the film is still on it in the above pic. I then peeled away the film. You can see the start of the peel in the photo below.

At this point, you could see a little glue residue.

Using a soft cloth dipped in the alcohol and dabbing the area, the glue came right off. The ink was not affected.

And there you have it! A beautiful transfer of ink onto a painted, glazed, and sealed board. I added a couple of coats of poly over it to seal it in.

**********

Next, I used the water-based Polyurethane method and it worked well, too. If I run out of glue, I wouldn’t hesitate to use it. Again, I would be a little more generous when applying it.

I did apply it in the same way as above.

I did find out that the film was a little harder to remove and you could see the outline of the film a little even after it was removed.

After a couple of coats more to seal, you could no longer see it.

This will be a transfer method I will use again. I am very pleased with the results.

Upcycle a Stone Coaster with a Decoupaged Napkin

I ran across a set of four stone coasters in a thrift store one day. Someone had tried to stencil and had a fail with bleed through. Their loss was my gain so I bought them with the idea I could do something with them some day.

Update: these coasters were already made but a friend told me she gets the stone tile at Lowes and then adds felt pads to the bottom for coasters. 🙂

Today is that day. We are going to deliver this beautiful bistro set to its new owner this weekend (hopefully the snow stops soon), but we wrapped and loaded it before the snow started in case we can’t go until Sunday.

This is a repeat client and I wanted to have a little gift for her. As I am such a hoarder….I mean a person who is always prepared …… with supplies, I just happened to also have a package of napkins I purchased in a shop somewhere that I knew would look great with the color of paint I used, Missouri Limestone Paint Company Chalk-style paint “Clothesline”, one of my favorite colors.

Here are the steps I took to create two coasters for her that will look great on the stained table top. Sorry, I forgot to take pics of this part.

1. I cleaned the coasters thoroughly.

2. I painted the tops and sides (to cover the black stencil) white “January” color. The white paint will really help the print stand out.

3. While the paint dried, I cut out the flower area a little bigger than the coaster. I peeled off the two white layers of the napkin so that I was left with only the printed part.

4. For the decoupage medium, I did not use Modpodge. I used Varathane water-based Polyurethane. I find it works great for decoupage. I applied a layer over the white paint and while still wet I applied the napkin. I used a sponge dipped in the poly to press the napkin into the stone, making sure I had no bubbles.

5. Once dry, I used 220 sandpaper to sand the edges.

6. I then used 2 coats of Rustoleum spray lacquer on the tops and sides to seal the napkin. Using lacquer will not reactivate the poly, so no bubbles formed.

The coasters look beautiful! I think my client will be very happy with her gift.

Stencil a Button? Why not?

Today my worlds collided into an explosion of citrus goodness. I crochet, too, and needed some buttons to go with this scarf in a project I have going for our local mission (along with my awesome cousin Rodney Strothcamp who purchased the yarn for this project).

What to do? Why stencil wooden buttons, of course, using Missouri Limestone Paint Company’s “Pumpkin Patch”. It was a perfect match. I didn’t even realize until after I cut out a pattern on my Silhouette machine and painted them that they looked exactly like an orange slice.

I have provided a free Silhouette Studio 3 file and an SVG pattern.

Sure makes you think of a bright and sunny day during these cold days of winter, doesn’t it?

I loved this scarf pattern using the chenille blanket yarn that is so soft and warm. I love how it looks almost knitted in the design. I will be making more of these and painting more buttons for sure!

Scarf pattern is free on YouTube!

https://goo.gl/images/cyQ6To

How to Create Paint Color Sample Sticks Using a Silhouette Portrait Machine

We own a franchise for a brand of chalk-style paint and currently consign it in 6 area locations. We also custom paint and are always needing color samples to show clients. We have a large variety of colors and have tried various ways to create color samples with no success as it is so time consuming.

Until today.

I happened to see an advertisement from a big name paint company show up on my Facebook feed. Imagine that! They were advertising a 12 by 12 inch piece of peel and stick vinyl featuring their paint colors. You could peel and stick it in various places to see how you’d like that color on your wall. Ingenious idea! And I had one of those infamous “Aha” moments!

Peel and stick vinyl??? Ha! I have been using this for years. In my world it is called contact paper. I use it all the time for stencils. I have noticed that our paint shows up well and adheres very well to the vinyl when I stencil.

Today, I realized I could create paint sample sticks in bulk with a piece of contact paper, my Silhouette Portrait machine, jumbo craft sticks, our paint, and our label maker to neatly label the colors.

So, first I created a template that would fit well on the craft stick. I wanted to leave an area at the end of the stick to drill a hole so I could string all the colors together.

My original Silhouette Portrait Studio file I created held 12 cut outs, but I have since updated it to 18. I used a 9×12 sheet of contact paper. I figure it doesn’t hurt to have as many as I could fit as you never know when you’d need another paint color stick. My gift to you is sharing this file, saving you the time it took me to make the template. It is available to download as a Silhouette Studio file.  And for those of you who have a Cricut or other type of machine, here is the file in SVG format, too.

Paint Color Sample Stick Template – Studio 3 file

Paint Color Sample Stick Template – SVG file

You are welcome. 🙂 These fit the jumbo craft sticks I purchased from Walmart.

To cut the file, I used the Silhouette cutting mat. My settings were: Silhouette Vinyl for the Material used (even though I was using Contact Paper), #2 for the ratchet blade, #5 for the speed and #3 for thickness. In the photo below, you can barely see, but it is there, the outline of my cuts.

Next, I painted the whole sheet with two coats of paint (to get good coverage).

Then, I just started peeling the cut strips off the backing. I didn’t need to use any transfer medium of any kind as they were small enough to just peel and stick on my jumbo craft stick. These came from Walmart. I just lined each one up on a stick and pressed it down. It adheres well. You could peel it back off, but for this purpose there is no need. I want it to stay put.

For the last step, I used our label maker to create labels for the color.

And there you have it! I have enough to start creating color sample sticks for all our colors for the 6 locations, one for a new wholesale client, a couple for us, and extra ones to have in reserve just in case.

This was such a quick and easy way to create paint color sample sticks in bulk. Now, onto making them for our other 40 plus colors. 🤪

And just look at the variety of colors we carry!!!

The Making of A Modern Gossip (Telephone) Bench

Here it is! Our first project for the new year. This is going to be a process so keep checking back.

I thought I would be clever and do a sneak peek of this project on my Facebook page. (https://facebook.com/sharsumpaint). I won’t tell you the time I wasted using an app to cut out this image, but I will tell you that I had a bad head cold and with all the talk on the news about the “2020” race, I typed 2020 instead of 2019 and then posted the image. Those are both good excuses, I think, so I am using them.🤪

A couple of my friends noticed and kindly let me know. One said it looked like I had a year to get it done. She could be right. Lol

So, after fixing the sneak peek, we got busy.

First things first. Preparation is the most important part when painting and refinishing furniture. Yes, you do need to prep to get lasting results.

1. We did a major cleaning on the piece and then my husband rough sanded the whole piece to break up the slick finish. Sometimes a piece will be so dirty, we will go through many rags before we start getting a clean rag. And we definitely don’t want to sand the disgusting dirt and grime into the wood. It is important to scuff up the existing finish if it looks a little shiny. This will help your paint bond. But it is true that you don’t have to sand or strip the furniture completely to use chalk-style paint. He did remove the desk top piece and completely sanded it down because I wanted to stain that piece. Then we cleaned again. We use a 50/50 mix of vinegar and distilled water for most projects.

2. Just to be on the safe side, we generally shellac pieces that are going to be painted a lighter color. We use Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac. It prevents bleed through. It also acts as an odor blocker. We use the spray version frequently to spray the whole inside and outside of pieces, just to make sure. We will take out drawers and spray away. The inside of drawers, too. This works great to block out musty smells and that old cigarette smell. Since this was a small piece, we used spray shellac all over. I recommend spraying outside and using a mask. When painting it on, I use a cheap brush and throw it away. Shellac also has an added feature of drying quickly. It also creates a good bond for chalk-style paint.

I couldn’t wait to stain that top! I made sure the last sanding was with 220 then cleaned it well and used a wood conditioner. The stain was a fast drying oil based stain by Varathane with a one hour dry time. Usually, with oil based stains, I wait at least 3 days to apply my Varathane water-based Polyurethane to make sure it is thoroughly dry. With this miracle oil stain, you only need to wait an hour and then you can use any Varathane Polyurethane. Since I am impatient, I liked that idea! It went on easily and evenly with a rag. I wiped it down with a clean rag, but there wasn’t much need. I did wait overnight to use Varathane Crystal Clear water-based Polyurethane in Satin Finish, but only because we were leaving for the evening. Otherwise, I definitely only would have waited the hour. I am very impatient. 😊 I applied the polyurethane with a slightly dampened car sponge (my applicator of choice right now) and it went on like a dream, using very thin coats! The water -based polyurethane dries quickly. I did one coat on the bottom and 5 coats on the rest.

And just look at this gorgeous piece of wood!

Now, before anyone says, “Since that turned out so well, why didn’t you just refinish the whole thing?” That would be a good question. I do try to save the wood when I can. But some pieces are just not in a good enough condition to save. This top was. The rest of the bench wasn’t. Plus, have you ever tried to remove old finishes from spindles and legs? That alone would have kept me from restoring this bench. We are not in the antique restoration business. We are in the furniture refurbish business. We sell a brand of chalk-style paint and love taking a piece of good quality, solid wood furniture that has seen better days and make it new again. We love offering our furniture for sale at a fraction of the cost of a new solid wood piece that I’m positive isn’t as well built as these older pieces were. That’s why they have been around as long as they have, even if they aren’t pretty anymore.

So, I will hop down off my soapbox now and get started painting the rest of the bench. My husband took it outside to spray the shellac and it should now be dry.

Just look at the gorgeous color I am using. We own a franchise and distribute this brand of chalk-style paint that originated in the Ozarks of Missouri. We are now authorized to produce it, too, and to come up with new colors. This is a custom color we created and named “MO Duck Egg!” I love this color!

My plans right now are to use a black chiffon glaze over it to give the piece dimension and bring out the detail. That could change, so stay tuned!

Did I mention I was impatient? I couldn’t wait to see how the glaze would look, so I tried it on the spindle that will go back under the desk top.

An important hint about glaze. Chalk-style paint is very porous and will quickly absorb the glaze. You then will not be able to move it around or wipe it off. You will first want to put a coat of poly over the paint. It will act as a barrier and allow you to manipulate the glaze. If you get too much somewhere, you can use a baby wipe (the kind without lotion) or a damp rag and wipe it off. After the glaze dries, you will need to seal it with a poly or wax or a sealer of some kind.

Oh, yeah! I will be using this glaze for sure. The brand is Glaze Couture – Black Chiffon

Now to start on the bench. I turned it upside down to start. I decided the bottom looked really nice so I am not painting it. I am painting just the edge. Note: the secret to no brush strokes when painting with chalk-style paint is thin coats. It will look like it is not covering. That is the way it should look. Also thin coats dry fast. Most people think it should cover just like one coat latex paint does. So remember: thin coats!

I will give everything I can reach two coats, then turn it over to do the rest. It looks like two coats will do it. Sometimes you will need to do more. Whites and reds tend to take more coats. It may take more coats than latex but with a drying time of about 15 minutes, by the time you finish the one coat, you are ready for another. You are rewarded with a brush free finish, that when sealed will look like it came straight from Pottery Barn. See my spindle again. You do need to seal most inside furniture. Chalk-style paint leaves a dull matte finish. Sealing it protects and finishes it off.

I don’t paint from my jars. You don’t want to leave chalk-style paint exposed to the air too long as it dries quickly and will start to thicken up. You also don’t want to contaminate it by dipping your brush in and not using the paint all at one time. So I pour it into another container. I usually use throw away plastic cups or paper plates. I also have started using something called FIFO bottles. These are self sealing plastic bottles restaurants typically use for things like salad dressings. They work well for me.

You will also see I wrap my brushes in aluminum foil so they don’t dry out whenever I am not using them for awhile.

The following photo shows what one coat should look like. You can see it isn’t covering at all.

That’s all I have for tonight. But keep watching this page for updates.

Back to painting – I have just finished the second coat of the MO Duck Egg. Two coats is covering just fine on this piece. I will be using a glaze so all is well. I’d this we’re to be a piece that I wanted to be sharp with no distressing, I would do a third coat. As soon as this dries in about 15 minutes, I will turn it over to finish painting.

I like to turn pieces upside down and do the legs first. That way I can see them better to paint and do not have to practically lay on the floor to paint them. I also like to raise the pieces up when I can. This one is sitting on an end table.

I use different brushes for different purposes, but for basic painting, you can’t beat the cheap 2″ chippy brush that I am using on this piece. The only problem is that it has natural bristles that shed easily, so you have to watch you aren’t painting bristles onto your piece. For new brushes, I pull on the bristles and fan the out several times. That seems to help.

And from this closeup you can see the 2nd coat has covered well with no brush strokes. I can get a look of textured brush strokes, but didn’t want to on this piece.

I turned the bench over and then put the two coats on the rest.

As you can see in the closeup photo below, two coats covered well. I also put the spindle that had been glazed next to the final coat and you can see how a glaze technique can give a piece an entirely different look. This is exactly the look I was envisioning.

It took about 6 ounces of paint to paint two coats on this bench. Tomorrow I will apply one coat of Polyurethane and then glaze the whole piece with the Black Chiffon glaze. I will let it dry well overnight and then seal it with two coats of polyurethane the next day. On some pieces that will get a lot of hard use, like the stained desk top or a table top, etc. I apply 3-5 coats for durability. But the bench won’t need that many.

That’s all for tonight.

Update: 1/8/19

I gathered my supplies yesterday for adding a coat of poly before glazing and then got to work.

I left one sponge intact and then cut the other up into smaller pieces. This will help get into the smaller areas of the bench with the polyurethane.

I ended up using the smallest piece of sponge on all the spindle areas and legs. I used the half sponge on the rest. The smaller pieces worked out well. Note: before using, I dampened the sponges, wringing them out well. I didn’t want them very wet. Just damp. The sponge brush, I used to wipe away any glaze that tried to pool around the spindles.

When the glaze dried, I then used a lint free rag to wipe on the glaze and then wiped it off with baby wipes how I wanted, blending it in as I went to get the look I wanted. I again turned the bench upside down to get to the legs easily.

Once the glaze dried, late last night, I sealed it all again with another coat of polyurethane.

The Gossip Bench is now ready and available for purchase. I have named her Ernestine, in honor of Laugh In’s telephone operator. One ringy dingy…..😂 The younger generation will not get that so here is a YouTube video just for them or anyone else that cares to reminisce. Lol

https://youtu.be/U0Gw9IUmjwM

I hope you enjoyed following along and maybe learned a trick or two along the way.