While waiting for my visiting grandson to wake up, I strolled around my basement wondering what I could declutter first. Then I happened upon a package of terry cloth coasters called “Thirsty Coasters”.
I bought several packages of these at one point, thinking I could do something with them sometime. Another time I bought several cool little coaster holders. Same. Lol
Forget decluttering for now. I started wondering if I could stencil a design on them. I had a little boho mandala stencil that fit perfectly and I had lots of chalk-style paint from our brand we produce and sell Missouri Limestone Paint Company, so I chose “Gray Goose”.
They stenciled beautifully. Once they have had a good 30 day cure, our paint will be indestructible no matter how many sweaty glasses or hot coffee cups are set on it as the paint becomes part of the fabric.
This will make an awesome Christmas gift – just thinking ahead. 😂
So, I have done a bit of decluttering, too! Lol
I gathered my supplies and my coffee and was ready to begin.
I like using the makeup sponges I get at Dollar Tree for stenciling and small projects. I off load a little of the paint onto the paper plate so that when I stencil, it doesn’t seep under.
The terry cloth took the stenciling beautifully. I love how they turned out!
When a friend contacted me to see if I would like a large bag of Oui yogurt jars, I jumped at the offer. I’d been seeing many different ideas on using them for projects. Better yet, she had already cleaned them and…..she delivered! I couldn’t wait to try adding a transparent color to them!
I am a crafter who likes quick results but still want to produce a quality product as I usually sell my creations. Except this one. The final result reminds me of depression glass and is so beautiful! I loved my project so much I kept it for myself. 😌 I do have more jars, though. 😏
My friend’s jars were already cleaned, but I have read that it can be a little difficult to remove the label and the glue around where the foil lid was. Some have found soaking them for 30 minutes worked. Others report using Goo Gone, and an emery board on the lip will remove stubborn glue there.
I had watched some tutorials that just seemed too time consuming or I know wouldn’t work for me (coloring the inside of the jar, or spray paint, or painting it on are a few techniques that come to mind.)
I have painted glass with a special technique and baked it before with excellent results, but I have also skipped the baking and used what I call my magic finishing spray and the finish becomes as hard as rock and passes the scratch test even before curing. My magic spray is shown in the photo above: Mod Podge Pearlized Sealer. I usually purchase mine on Amazon. It is hard to find in craft stores.
This technique I’m using here has worked for me so well when using chalk style paint on glass (and metal) I thought it should work well with Mod Podge and food coloring. And it did!!!
If your jars are free of glue and have been washed thoroughly, it is time to create some faux depression glass! Here are the supplies I used:
Step 1: Wipe down your clean jar with alcohol to make sure there are no oils on it. Try not to touch the surface of the jar with just your fingers now. Use a paper towel to pick it up.
Step 2: I used the dishwasher safe Mod Podge. Again, I usually purchase from Amazon because I’m not close to big craft stores, but this is normally available there. I do not use this type because I think these will be dishwasher safe afterwards. I don’t. I’m not recommending washing them at all. Dust them or use a damp cloth, but avoid hand washing even. These also are used for decoration only, in my opinion, not for food. I use it because it is glossy and I think not as thick or sticky as regular Mod Podge. Any glossy should work, though. As you can see it looks rather opaque, but trust me the glossy dries clear. Matte will not.
Mix your Mod Podge and food coloring. This is tricky because as you can see the color I mixed looks nothing like the jar does when dry. It is a little trial and error. I was going for the look of the teal colored vintage insulators. In the photo I realized I had to much green at first so I added more blue. This color ended up being perfect.
So…. I would suggest you try a couple of tablespoons of Mod Podge and about 4 drops of blue food color. You might not even need any green.
Step 3: I wrapped my hand in a paper towel and put my 4 fingers inside the jar. The reason for doing this is that the paper towel and my fingers made a snug fit and the jar didn’t move on me. Also, it kept my hand from getting too hot when I used the blow dryer to dry my coat of Mod Podge/food color combo.
My trick to get a really neat texture on glass is to daub on what you are applying onto the surface with a makeup sponge (like you are stenciling.) I buy these at Dollar Tree. Best of all, I just throw them away when finished. I just daubed the mixture all around, turning my hand to reach all the jar sides. Don’t worry about the lip. I later daubed some metallic silver on it.
Step 4: I mentioned I was an impatient crafter, so a hair dryer is my best friend. I made passes of heat and shots of cool air, finishing with the cool air and not getting too close to the jar, until I felt it was dry enough to do a second coat. It will be a bit tacky, but that’s ok. (I’m just showing the hair dryer here. I couldn’t take a pic and dry at the same time, so I’m not really drying that close!)
I then applied a 2nd coat. You can see the 2nd coat makes it a bit darker when applying, but once dry you can really see the difference.
Step 5: Use the hair dryer again, getting it as dry as possible. I admit, I rushed it a bit. It was still a bit tacky. But, truthfully, I think Mod Podge always stays a bit tacky. 🤷🏼♀️ You could wait awhile to see if it goes away, or you could be impatient like me and move on to sealing it. 😬
Step 6: Now is the time to seal your jar. I missed taking a photo of this step but I basically turned the jar upside down on a piece of plastic, and sprayed all around with the Mod Podge Pearlized Glaze sealer. Again, don’t worry about the rim. I recommend wearing a mask for this step and have good ventilation. It doesn’t take long for this to dry to the touch. Just a couple of minutes. But then I used the hair dryer on it, too. After about 15 minutes, lightly try the scratch test. Hopefully, you will not get any scratch marks. And it will continue to cure and get harder.
Step 7: Final Step: Use another makeup sponge and daub over the rim lightly with a metallic silver to give it a vintage look as well as a finished look. I use Rustoleum metallic water-based paint I got from Menards. But any will work.
And now for individual photos! I can’t tell you how pretty this is on the table. I used timed battery operated votives that stay on 6 hours and automatically go off and back on again at the same time as I first turned them on. Again, I found these on Amazon.
I loved doing this so much, I just had to see what the red food coloring would do, so I tried a couple of tablespoons of the Mod Podge and about 4 drops of red food coloring. Beautiful! Although, if doing it again, I would use less drops for an even lighter pink.
Oui French Yogurt jars are the best! Can’t wait to make more projects with these jars!
I’m on a roll with these jars. Here’s a couple more things I’ve made. 🙂
A Valentine Craft – A Tiny Banner from Dollar Tree Dominoes
I’ve come up with a way to use these flat wooden dominoes from Dollar Tree! I bought some of these thinking there had to be a way to use them in crafts and this morning, it hit me….💡 Tiny banners for tiered trays…..or other ways you can think of.
I made one to see how they would look, but you can see they work great! I just had to share so you could run out and get a supply of these dominoes. They are generally in stock, but I did see you can buy anywhere from 4-32 packages online. You might have to pay shipping to your home for smaller quantities, but for at least 36 ordered, I think you can have them shipped to your store.
These dominoes are raw wood on the back and paper on the front.
The wood is thin Balsa wood, like the little wooden airplanes you put together. I cut this one into a banner shape with scissors. I tried a craft knife later, but strong scissors worked better. I sanded the edges smooth and drilled small holes for the baker’s twine, also from Dollar Tree.
To get the aged wood look, I painted both sides with white chalk-style paint and let dry. Then I watered down a little dark walnut gel stain and used a paper towel to wipe it on and wipe off. I did just a bit of white on top again. Just a bit. Then sanded each one just a bit. The sanding really distressed them nicely. I hadn’t done the final sanding on my sample.
I painted right over the paper. I did both sides, but the back is raw wood so I don’t suppose you’d have to finish it.
I had some hearts I cut from vinyl but you could also use stickers. Dollar Tree did have a lot of those.
If you use generic string or jute twine and removable vinyl, you could easily change out your banner for any season. Stickers might be harder to remove, but maybe not.
Don’t you hate planning meals and grocery lists for those meals, then think? Why did I buy this? What did I plan for meals? When did I plan to make the meals? A Chalkboard clipboard with a template stenciled in paint (or cut from vinyl) lets you fill in the name of the meal with a chalk pen and then wipe it all away, ready for the next week.
I purchased this clipboard from Dollar Tree and painted it with chalkboard paint. It may have come from Dollar Tree or possibly Dollar General.
I used a cut file I purchased with a commercial license from https://dawnnicole.co so I could legally sell the menu planning clipboards I created.
However, if you want to do this for yourself personally, the template is free for that.
I cut out a stencil on my Silhouette machine for this project and stenciled it with our brand of chalk-style paint “Missouri Limestone Paint Company” in the color January. You can also use permanent vinyl.
The first time before using chalk on it, though you need to prime it with a layer of chalk. Then clean it off. This keeps older messages from showing as a ghost image after it is erased.
I may just start planning some meals and buying some groceries regularly now. 😁
I am not a newbie when it comes to painting shoes with chalk-style paint, specifically the brand we own and produce “Missouri Limestone Paint Company”. I’ve painted shoes made of quality leather as well as those that are from cheap man-made materials. Then I’ve worn the heck out of them. This latest pair I painted two coats and applied two coats of salve – all in less than an hour.
Would you like to know how I did it? First, a sneak peek to see the transformation in progress.
I started out by cleaning the shoes well with Windex. This is my go to cleaner for many things I paint.
All the added color on this pair is from our chalk-style paint. This paint is on there for good, trust me. Cleaning didn’t remove it, nor could I scratch it off. I didn’t want to sand it or use chemicals on it, so…. I painted over it. 😏
I also know from experience, our paint does very well on rubber. I painted a Rubbermaid mailbox several years ago….no sealer….and it still looks brand new today. So, I also painted the soles of this pair of shoes, but did not seal them.
I painted the first coat. It dried quickly, but so also helped it along with a hair dryer. You can see the reddish look coming through along with the spots from the original paint splatters. But look! No brush strokes! Our paint (when applied in thin coats), does not leave brush strokes.
It is time to apply the salve. I love Wise Owl Salve and keep it on hand for projects like this.
As you can see, I applied the Wise Owl salve on the left shoe so you can see what a difference it makes.
I applied the first coat of salve and buffed it. Then, I applied a light second coat and just rubbed it in, but did not buff. Remember, I DID NOT use the salve on the soles.
And there you have it! Another pair of shoes given a new life. I promise not to paint in these! I will periodically apply another coat of salve and buff it in.
1. Took the light apart and scuffed up the pieces. Cleaned well.
2. Sprayed all pieces with primer.
3. Painted with Metallic Silver waterbased paint. I put a small amount in plastic cup and painted out of it. I even painted the cord.
4. Added a little Medium gray color chalk-style paint to the metallic, stirred it in, and using a piece of natural sponge, I dabbed it on each piece. I used our brand we own and produce: Missouri Limestone Paint Company.
5. Then I added a little white and dabbed again all over.
6. Then I added some black and dabbed again.
7. Finished by dabbing a little silver metallic with a brush, making sure there wasn’t much paint on the brush.
I have been seeing people painting these worn out rubber mats. I even have one of my own I’ve been planning on painting. But mine was always black with a geometric design so I hadn’t been that motivated yet. I’m sure it will stand out, though, once painted with beautiful colors.
But then, this week, I found two faded flower ones for $1 each at a yard sale and I snatched them up!
We also picked up a couple of grandkids for the weekend so mom and dad could celebrate their anniversary. While the grands were content watching TV and playing on their devices, I thought I would just start on one to see what it was like. I am very impressed! They paint up great and are easy to paint.
I used our brand of chalk-style paint, Missouri Limestone Paint Company, in a variety of colors. I know rubber usually does well outside curing without sealing, but because this will get walked on a lot, I will seal it. I am leaning toward using a matte spray lacquer.
I was working on it on the dining room floor and one of my grandsons came over to see what I was doing. He wanted to help me and so he did. He’s not even in Kindergarten yet and he works so carefully. He is really a good painter. He also wanted to make a how-to video like his cousins had done so he has videos here, too. Of course, I would lose my helper until I changed colors. Then he’d be back again.
When we finished, he wanted to show how painting tired him out. Lol
Not only is he a good painter, he’s a comedian, too. 😂🥰
Here is the 2nd one. I used jewel tone colors on it. Sure missed having my little helper here as I worked on it.
What a makeover! This awesome slate topped huge coffee table was a custom job. We brought it back from the dead as it was in pretty rough shape with a finish that was the old thick rough and nasty varnish. Prepping is definitely the key! Quite the project, right? But once we finish, it will be perfect in the young person’s apartment (once moving day occurs). For now, it will go in mom and dad’s basement family room and still be used by young people. 🙂
The first thing you need to do is spend some time contemplating how to remove the top. Oh, and to find a place to store the slate top until needed again. No problem, it resided under our living room couch until needed. 🙂
The top sanded easily to get it smooth enough to paint. A good cleaning and two coats of our Missouri Limestone Paint Company chalk-style paint “Coal Shovel” and two coats of Varathane Crystal clear water based polyurethane in satin finish later, it was ready for curing.
Sanding the bottom piece wasn’t working at all. Danny got a good amount off with stripper, then I did another round of stripping with mineral spirits mixed in. That helped a lot. Then another round of mineral spirits. Cleaned well them sanded again. Used a tack cloth to get rid of any sanding dust. Then cleaned really well again. That finally got it smooth enough for painting.
Now came the task of lining the top and bottom holes for screwing it back together.
The beautiful slate top was rescued from under the couch and got a good drink of Wise Owl Lemon Verbena Salve. What a difference that made! It smells good now, too!
So happy how it turned out. This table is eventually going in a young person’s apartment. I can just see a group of young people gathered around it. Sitting on colorful pillows that could easily be stored underneath.
It was in good shape, but dated. It needed a makeover. We had sanded the top almost all the way, but it still needed a bit more to get it down to bare wood.
However, life got in the way and so it sat in our basement waiting patiently for its makeover.
A few days ago, it happened. I took the heat gun and stripped away the rest of the residue on the top, then sanded it smooth and hand scuffed the base. I cleaned it well.
I couldn’t wait to try out the DIY wood aging stain recipe I found and mixed up. It had been sitting waiting to be used for several weeks. I had tried it right after I mixed it up on a board. I think it reacts differently on different types of wood and it really hadn’t had a chance to darken the wood much. But, it turned out with a beautiful, natural wood look that I loved.
The stain is a mix of used coffee grounds, vinegar and steel wool. It doesn’t look very pretty in the jar, but wait until you see it on this oak table top!
The interesting thing is you don’t see how it is working until it dries. At first it looks like it is just darkening the wood (and it darkens more as it dries) but when it dries, ahhhh….there is that beautiful grayish cast….just like old barn wood that has been left out in the weather for years. And this photo doesn’t even do it justice.
Hmmm…..At this point I happened to notice a strange formation in the grain going across the top. In my eye, I saw a llama head and neck. There are actually 4 of them, seeming to march in a line across the table, but this one stands out more than others. Still not seeing it? Let me help you. Lol
So now I had the stain on, but I wanted to really enhance the old wood look so I sealed it with a mix of liming wax and clear wax.
I wanted to open up the grain for the liming wax to get into it and stay so I used a wire brush and carefully ran it across the table top, going with the grain.
The liming wax I used is by Briwax. I mixed some of it with Howard’s Chalk-tique light wax. You can use any brand of clear wax, though. Mixing them together gives you a little more control over the liming wax and provides a nice finish. I think you can purchase both of these products from several places like Amazon online.
The next photo shows half the table top with the liming wax combo and half without. What a difference the liming wax makes!!
Can you see my 4 marching llamas? I know…. they are hard to see. Lol
Let me help. 🙂
Here is the top all waxed and buffed. Again, pics don’t really show just how beautiful this table top is. The sheen of the wax is gorgeous!
By the way, did you know wax helps repel dust? So using wax on furniture that isn’t going to get a lot of heavy use will save you dusting time, too!
The little metal feet needed a makeover, too, so I took them off and spray painted them a metallic gold. So pretty now!
Now it was time to paint the base. Sometimes I use primer, sometimes I don’t. I didn’t on this one. I had just cleaned and scuffed it up really well. In retrospect, I wish I had primed this and I wouldn’t have had to use as many coats of chalk-style paint, especially since I wasn’t going to distress this piece. I used 4 coats of Missouri Limestone Paint Company “January”, a pure white. You tend to need more coats when using white or very light colors.
But all is well as chalk-style paint dries so quickly. Once the paint coats had all dried well I sealed the base with several thin coats of Varathane Crystal Clear water based polyurethane. I never have had a problem with yellowing in the 6 years I’ve been using it.
The secret is thin coats and no drips or pooling. I use a round damp car wax sponge to put on a thin coat and follow it with a sponge brush if needed to clear up any drips or pooling. For long areas I go in one direction only and work quickly. You can’t go back and forth or overwork the sealer or you will have a mess as it dries so quickly.
And now…. drum roll ….. My finished “llama table!” 😉 What a difference, right?
I’ve been on a kick creating stencils lately of farm animals on my Silhouette machine. My latest project has become my favorite! 🙂 I also tried a new staining technique on this one. I will definitely be using this technique again.
I started with a plain new pine board. Danny, my husband and partner in our world of painting and creating, had previously cut a long pine board into 9 x 11 1/2” boards, sanding and rounding the edges. Some we will make into cutting boards, but this one I wanted to make a tray that could also hang up and be used as a wall decoration.
This worked well to darken the wood and bring out the grain. I would have liked for the wood to have been a little darker. When this dried, and after 3 coats, I still thought it would be a little darker but it was fine. I let the solution sit for 24 hours after I mixed it. The next time, I think I would let it sit several days.
After drying, the board was ready for the white wash, I mixed our brand of chalk-style paint Missouri Limestone Paint Company (MLPC) “January” with a little water, painted it on, then used a damp rag to rub it in and wipe it off. I let that dry well and it was ready to stencil.
I really liked the look of the end result – I will be using this technique on a small table top next.
I uploaded the SVG file to my Silhouette machine, traced it and cut it out, using Contact paper. I find this is a cheap and easy way to cut stencils. The Contact paper adheres nicely and is easy to remove. I also use clear Contact paper to transfer the stencil to my project. Press n Seal will also work as a transfer.
Then I did all the “weeding” (picking out the areas of vinyl) for the dark area of the skull. I stenciled those areas with MLPC “French Roast”, a dark brown.
For the flower area, I decided the best way to finish that would be to hand paint it, so that’s what I did. I am no artist, but I did learn to pretty much stay in the lines when coloring in elementary school. ☺️
The MLPC colors used: Crepe Myrtle, Farmhouse Green, Cornflower, Radio Flyer, Sour Green Apples, English Bluebells, and MO Buttercup.
Once all the flower area was dry I sealed front, back, and sides with Varathane water-based Crystal Clear Polyurethane in Satin Finish. I used 5 thin coats for durability. This piece may be used as a tray so I wanted it to stand up to hard use. (It was so pretty out I did the sealing on my deck. I had my book and coffee handy and read while my sealer dries. It only took about 10 minutes for each on this day.)
Now it was time for the handles. I remembered seeing a DIY on Pinterest for creating handles out of strips of leather. I happened to have the perfect belt made of genuine cowhide that I thought would be perfect! I had purchased it at Goodwill some time ago to create handles for a suitcase dresser, so used it for this project instead. I cut two strip of 8” each and we attached them to the edges of the top and bottom of the board using vintage wood screws.
This beautiful, floral cow skull tray/ wall hanging decoration is now complete! I absolutely love how it turned out!
Here are the other projects I have recently completed.