A Wax Resist Tutorial – Using Chalk-Based Paint and Furniture Wax

I have probably said it before, but I’m saying it again.  I LOVE playing with techniques and color on the 1970’s style plastic furniture.  I have been buying up wall vase sconces and wall candle holder sconces and trying out different techniques.  This is going to help me decide how to paint some solid wood furniture I have with the plastic fronts. These pieces are gorgeous when painted.

The technique I used on this set of wall sconces is a wax resist using the paint we sell, Missouri Limestone Paint Company’s chalk-based paint.  Any chalk-based paint should work just as well.  Any furniture wax should work fine also. I used Annie Sloan clear wax mixed with gray paint just because I had it on hand.  Otherwise, I would have used just clear.  You can wait until it is fully dry (about 24 hours) and give it a light coat of wax and polish.  Just don’t rub too hard.

The wax resist, on these sconces, produces an old world layered effect that is just beautiful.  I used 4 colors. over the original gold of the plastic piece, “January” (a pure white), “Sunday Silver” (a medium gray), “Arlington Blue” (a medium blue), and “English Bluebells” (a light blue).

View the Tutorial Here:  https://youtu.be/pcmhZ5Ydb64 

Photos from the tutorial: 

 

 

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Chalk-based Paint Q and A – A Recorded Live Video

Last Friday evening, I sat down to do my first Live Video on Facebook.  After stressing pretty much all day about it and primping like I was getting ready for a first date, I was ready.  It seemed almost too easy to set up so I was a little worried.  I got in about 5 minutes early just to make sure I knew what I was doing and 30 seconds later, I got the message that I had a poor connection and the little hamster wheel just started spinning.  Great!  I’ve had enough experience with technology, though, I just canceled it and started over.  That time I connected and it was smooth sailing (kind of) the rest of the evening.

Another lesson I learned was that there is evidently a rule that says you can only do an hour. Oops…didn’t know that.  One hour in and people weren’t wanting to leave, so I did 45 more minutes.  I also learned you can stop after an hour.  Wait 5 minutes, then reconnect.  I’m glad I didn’t do that and I’m glad Facebook didn’t cut me off, recorded the whole thing, and didn’t put me in Facebook jail for not following rules.  Whew!  Live and learn.

The biggest thing I would do differently would be to actually use the laptop sitting in front of me.  I was so stressed about it failing the first time, that when I saw the comments start coming up on my phone, I was so relieved, I didn’t think to start it on my computer.  In fact, I remember wondering why I wasn’t seeing it on my computer.  So, I spent the whole time leaning forward peering into the phone to see that tiny little print.  LOL

But once into it, I really enjoyed it.  There were a lot of questions and I was able to share a lot (although it was hard to share when questions kept scrolling through).  I tried to go back to see them but there were some I missed.  I did go back after and answered them on the recorded video.  It was also a little bit fun to “have the floor” so to speak with no one interrupting and me not talking over anyone else.  LOL

It was a great experience, all in all, and I will do it again.  In fact, one viewer suggested doing a live video during a painting class we have coming up on September 30, so we will be working that into the class.  Stay tuned for an update on that.

It is also important that you create an Event for a live video, usually about a week ahead of time.  Then people can join it and will be reminded when it is time for the live video.  I did this quickly, so I only had the event for the day.  I had so many viewers and reached so many people by sharing it with the online course I’m taking and the instructor shared it with one of the other groups she admins.  That was extremely helpful.  I also shared it in the groups I’m in that allows that, on my personal page, and on Instagram.

So…..are you ready to view my very first Live Video.  It really was like having friends come over on a Friday evening.  Too bad I didn’t think to serve wine. LOL .  I do want to warn you that sometime after the first hour, someone asked me to show something I had painted, so I grabbed my phone and tripod and took them on a tour of my living room.  LOL.  I was afraid I might have made them seasick.

And remember.  Be kind.  I am a newbie at this.

 

Dry brushed Desk and Hutch

This has been one of my favorite pieces I’ve painted.  I really wish I would have had room in my house to keep it, but it sold very quickly.  I’m so happy it sold to a family who had adopted several kids and wanted it to put in a bedroom, but once the lady saw it, she was going to display it in one of her main rooms instead to show it off.  Here it is in all its glory but since I recently was asked how I did this, I am going to show you some steps on how it came to be.  

I put off doing anything with it for months because I wasn’t looking forward to trying to paint inside those little cubbies on the hutch.  I even sold it to a painting friend because I wanted it out of my living room.  But then….I ran across a post from a lady describing how she had painted a desk using the dry brush technique.  And, wow!!!! It was the same exact desk I had.  They say imitation is the greatest form of flattery, but I did show her what I had done when finished.  She loved it!  She laughed and said she thought it was her piece at first.  So I thank her sincerely for the inspiration to try something like this as I never had attempted anything like it.  It was time I bought my desk and hutch back from my friend. I was sure glad she still had it. : )

Here you have the original desk and hutch.

As you can see, it is your standard oak.  The desk even had a hard laminate type top.  No problem.  It was time to start.

I cleaned the whole thing thoroughly.  We usually use a spray cleaner like windex and clean well and rinse well and let dry.  I then scuffed up the whole thing by hand with just 220 sandpaper, just to rough it up a little.  No major sanding need.

I took out the drawers and decided it would be easier to take the back off the hutch to paint it.  When we did, what do you know?  All those little cubbie slats came out!  The hutch ended up being a breeze to paint, too.

The drawers I painted with a couple of coats of a light turquoise with the paint we sell and use called Missouri Limestone Paint Company and the color is “Front Porch”.  Love the name.  Doesn’t it remind you of the color of the slats on the ceilings of the old farmhouse porches?  I distressed the drawers a little, too.  I even painted the cute little knobs I found at a yard sale and the wooden part of the handle with the color “Harvest Pumpkin”.  I did seal those with poly. The drawers have a slightly gray shading to them.  I did that by rubbing them with very fine steel wool.  That really makes a nice look.

 

I did a little video at the time to show how to drybrush, using the color “January”.  In this case, I wanted some of the oak showing through.  The big thing is not to have too much paint on your brush and then dab most of it off.  Fair warning – this video is in no way professional.  And yes, I sometimes paint in my dining room.  I have severe garage envy.

This hutch also had a corkboard.  I painted it with a coat of Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac first to keep the paint from soaking in too much, then painted a couple of coats of “Front Porch”.  I used a little of the “Front Porch” to get into the grooves of the detail on the top of the hutch.

I painted a chair with “Front Porch” and distressed it after the paint dried with a slightly damp scrubber sponge.  Used the scrubber to distress, then the sponge to wipe clean.

I sealed the whole piece with several coats of wax.  We use toulene-free Briwax.

I hope this tutorial inspires you to dry dry brushing.  It is very easy to do, and the results can be spectacular.  I have a few more photos of the process for you to enjoy.

corkboard

Painting the corkboard

paintedcubbies

Painting the cubbie slats and bottom

hutchwithoutbackandcubbies

Hutch without the back

 

 

 

 

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Meet “Rusty Missouri Glass”

Today I found out that maybe, just maybe, I might become an artist after all.  You know…kind of like Grandma Moses who started painting in earnest at the age of 78. The month I go on Medicare I find out I can actually come up with a piece of art on my own….visualizing something in my head and having it actually become a piece of art before my eyes.  What a rush!  But, before I quit my day job (retirement)….ok and teaching online part time and painting and selling furniture and pieces of art I create, I confess I was inspired by a technique I learned from an excellent tutorial I saw in one of my painting groups. But, hey! Let me have my moment.  I usually have to see something someone else does and be inspired by it and then create what I’ve seen done. Yes, I am usually a follower.  Today, I “moved to the front of the line”, if only for a moment, and it felt great!

Now that you know I am this famous artist, I’m going to show you how I learned this awesome technique of creating rust with paint and cinnamon. Yes, cinnamon!  It is really pretty amazing and so much fun to do.

First things first:  You have to watch this awesome, awesome, awesome video tutorial on how to create rust by Fiona Debell.  This lady is very talented and I love that she shares her talent.  Otherwise, I would have never known I could be an artist, even if it is for just one project.  So, here is the video, linked here with Fiona’s permission.  https://www.facebook.com/fiona.marie21/videos/10155133360103787/ 

So how did I become an artist today?  It was an accident.  After watching Fiona’s video, I thought I would practice her technique.   I was also inspired by a wonderful lady who is on several of my painting groups and uses this technique on clocks she makes.  Thank you Carla Abbie Shaw of Catalyst Creations!

I was in Dollar Tree and I saw these neat square pictures labeled Wall Art on the back and all encased in plastic.  I thought the art must be a thin piece of wood or heavy cardboard so thought that would be good for practice, so I bought one.  When I got home and removed the plastic, I saw it was actually a picture frame and the wall art was a piece of paper.  Hmmm…I wondered if it would be possible to use this technique on glass?  Now, I know that glass is a pretty slick surface for paint, but Fiona did show that once dry, the paint she used was hard as a rock and didn’t scratch off, but still, I wasn’t sure about glass. Since I was experimenting, 
I decided to give the glass a little grip and sprayed it with Zinsser spray shellac.  I honestly don’t know if the shellac made a difference or not, but the paint I used became as
 hard as a rock on the glass and doesn’t scratch off, so I’m not taking any chances and will use Zinsser on future pieces.  

Supplies:

*Square Picture frame (Wall Art) from Dollar Tree – Size 10″ x 10″

*Chalk paint – I sell a brand of chalk paint so naturally I used my brand which is Missouri Limestone Paint.  I used “Coal Shovel” (black), “River Bottom Dirt” (brown) and “January” (white).

*The magic ingredient to get good texture – I used a powdered limestone I bought on Amazon. See photo in the Step Section below.

*Cinnamon – yes, the kind you use in your food.  The plus side of this is your project starts smelling really nice.  You might get hungry at this point.

*Stencil of Missouri – I found a free Silhouette cut file online.  I resized it to about 6.5 W and 7.75 H.  Here’s the link to the state file.  They have one for every state.

*220 Sandpaper for very, very light sanding on the map

*Furniture Wax – clear and dark

Process:

Step 1:  Mix the powdered limestone with the black and brown paint until you get it so thick you can put it on the glass pane with the stir sticks.  I know it is hard to see but the pane of glass is lying on the tablecloth with some of the paint on it.  

Step 2:  Add a little black and then a little brown and blend them together.  You’ll still want some of the brown showing but you don’t want to see two distinct colors, you want them to blend.  Dab around until you like the look you get.  Save any leftovers of this and some “January” to dry brush the frame later.

Step 3: Your now going to sprinkle a little cinnamon over cinnamonyour wet textured paint, probably a little more on the edges, where you would see more rust. Kind of stand the pane of glass up and tap the back so any loose cinnamon will fall off.  Don’t disturb the rest.

Step 4:  Let dry.  The drying process will take awhile as your paint is so thick.  I let mine dry overnight.  Just like with Fiona’s brand of paint and texture medium, mine was as hard as a rock when dry.

Step 5:  You are now ready for the stencil.  I centered my stencil and made sure the edges were down really well.  It is hard to do with such texture, but I was very careful when stenciling.  (What little bleeding I got, I touched up later with a small artist brush and some of the black/brown mixture.  Then I put paint on a stencil sponge and really offloaded most of the paint (by dabbing on a paper towel) before starting to stencil.  I was very careful on the edges using the dobber.  I had to go back with a regular small paint brush to get in some of the nooks and crannies in the center area of my textured map.

Step 6:  I also dry brushed the picture frame with the white and left over black and brown texture material until I got the look I wanted.

Step 7: I used a little 220 sandpaper and lightly distressed the map a bit…Very light.

Step 8:  I used clear wax over the whole thing, and then the dark wax.  The dark wax is what gives the map that rustic look.  It really is hard to remember this beautiful piece of art started out as a pane of glass in a picture frame.

My experiment became my first piece of art I created. If you make one, please add a photo of your project to the Comments below.  I’d love to see how others turn out. Thanks!

Final Reveal:  Rusty Missouri Glass

 

 

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Alice in Wonderland Table

Sweet Serendipity is one of my favorite sites to follow. She is always creating beautiful one of a kind pieces of furniture. Most of all, she is so good at sharing techniques of how she does it. This is one of my favorite pieces she’s done lately. She based it on the children’s book, “Alice in Wonderland” and as I teacher, it really spoke to me. She was kind enough to share in this tutorial how she created it. Enjoy!

You’re not mad, you say??? “You must be,” said the Cat, “or you wouldn’t have come here.”……  Click on the link below to view the tutorial.

Source: We’re All A Little Mad…

Sweet Serendipity can also be found on Facebook

Tip of the Week – Did you know? You Can Make Your Own Drawer Knobs?

See previous Tips of the Week here.

TIP OF THE WEEK:  April 28, 2017 –  Did you know?  You can make your own drawer knobs.

It has been awhile since my last tip.  Sorry.  I’ve been a little busy with Easter, grands, and painting.  But this tip got me back in the saddle again, so to speak.

I have pretty much been obsessing all day today about drawer knobs.  I started my latest painting project last night – a 13 drawer chest.  Yes 13 drawers!  I couldn’t wait to start on this and have been thinking about drawer knobs and pulls for several weeks now.

Here’s a little sneak peek of my beauty in progress.

Before:

Stain/Painted Drawers:  Different pastel hues

But back to my obsession.  13 drawer = 23 knobs.  I thought at first I would like handles, but that just didn’t seem right, plus I didn’t want plugged holes and didn’t want to drill new ones.  So, then I moved onto – glass knobs.  I wanted something light and possibly beachy looking (rather than boring old wooden knobs).  However, I’m cheap and didn’t want to pay more than $1 for them and I wanted them NOW.  Did I also mention I’m IMPATIENT when I want something?

So, I went to my friendly facebook group on painting furniture (Painted Furniture Before and After Questions and Answers).  That name about says it all, doesn’t it?  If you are a painter of furniture, you really should join this group.  It is very helpful.  I think there were over 50 posts back and forth over my question on where to buy cheap glass knobs.  Lots of ideas and inspiration was shared – so much so I started rethinking what I wanted.  Someone mentioned Sea Glass spray paint.  That was a great idea.  I’ve heard of that.  Then I wondered if it would work on porcelain knobs because I had quite a few of them.  Not enough, but could get more cheaper than glass.  But I still wasn’t entirely sold on that idea.  In the back of my mind, I’m thinking that I’ve seen actual (or fake) sea glass pieces.  So now my obsession is moving toward that idea.  I couldn’t see myself gluing sea glass to the top of a wooden knob, though.  So, I was stuck there for awhile.

I went back to painting drawers and all the while I’m looking around the shop area thinking what could you use for a bottom so that a screw would go into it.  Of course, nothing jumped out at me.  So, it was back to Google.

I think I started searching using sea glass spray paint on porcelain knobs and saw a link that said “make your own drawer knobs” so I tried that.  The big Pinterest pic showed a decoupage look on a wooden knob so I didn’t go there (yet).  I just started scrolling down.  Wow!  I hit the drawer knob jackpot.  https://www.pinterest.com/pin/527413806331630014/

But there it was – Make your own Drawer Knobs.  I clicked on the link and what do you know…..you can use something to make the bottom of a drawer pull. Here’s the link to the website:  https://www.pinterest.com/pin/337840409518371097/

The piece you need is called in hardware terms, a connector nut or connector cap.  Who knew?

So, for now, my obsession is on finding these connector caps and seeing how expensive they are and maybe buying some pieces of real (or fake) sea glass.  Or maybe check more into the sea glass spray paint.

Decisions.  Does everyone obsess over something so simple as drawer knobs when painting?  If so, I hope I have helped you in your search.  I saw this meme the other day in one of my groups.  I’m sorry I don’t know if the person cited is the original creator or not, but it is perfect.  I think it sums up my feelings about all this redefining furniture and turning it into one of a kind “masterpieces.”

Patio Chairs Prettily Painted

Click here for previous Tips of the Week

TIP OF THE WEEK:  March 28, 2017 – Patio Chairs Prettily Painted

I was on a swap site close to my home and noticed a set of patio chairs for sale. I knew these had potential to look great again. They looked to be an expensive set at one time and I had looked for some of these comfortable swivel rockers last year so I knew how expensive they were. I just happened to comment on the post that whoever bought them could PM me and I’d tell them how they could paint them. A funny thing happened. The lady selling them PM’d me. Long story short….she removed her post….hired me to paint them for her….and is planning an in-home painting class this summer. She was thrilled with the final result and was hoping to get at least two more years out of them as they were going to be selling and moving closer to a daughter in another state. So, this was a win-win for both of us.

As you can see, even though the metal was in great shape and only needing painting, the fabric on some of the chairs was pretty threadbare in areas. It would be good to note that if you are planning on painting patio furniture fabric, you’ll have even more success than we did with these. They turned out very nice, but some were pretty threadbare and that still shows.

 

 

What I did next is not what you want to do next. On the first chair I painted the metal black first. That was a mistake. Why? Because when you paint fabric, you’ll want to wet the chair down first and then add some water to your paint – in this case we used the Missouri Limestone Paint Company chalk-based paint that we sell in the color “Crisp Kale”. So…..when painting with watered down paint, you’re going to to get that watered down mess all over your freshly painted black metal! What was I thinking? That one had to have metal repainted in many areas. So….moral of that story is paint the fabric first.

I also taped off the first one. I didn’t need to do that at all. My chippy brush allowed me to paint the black and not touch the green fabric, so no tape was used on the other chairs.

There were a couple of chairs that were really pretty threadbare. I had read that you could repair those with Bondo. I did that and those areas turned out ok and the paint covered them well, but I would recommend only using it if you had a small hole to fix. I wouldn’t do larger areas again.

I never use a roller when I paint with chalk-based paint but for the first coat on these chairs I did since the paint was watered down. That really helped the paint get into the threads of the fabric and adhere. I did two more coats, using a brush for them and that worked out great!

 

There is no need to seal chalk-based paint for outside furniture. The sun and heat cures the paint and makes it very durable.

Were they perfect after painting? No, not by any means. Will they hold up for my client for a few years? Yes, they should work out just fine for her. Are people going to be going up and getting eye to eye with the chairs and searching for flaws? I hope not. : ) Or, will they see the overall picture of the bright and cheerful patio chair set on her patio and wish they had one just like it. That’s what I’m hoping for! In the natural light and with the grass peeking through and trees starting to bud out in Missouri, the set looks beautiful on her deck, don’t you think?