I’ve been seeing the Dollar Tree Felt Pumpkins, Leaves, and Acorns used as stencils on the Dollar Tree gray door mats. This morning, I used the leaf one to create this beautiful door mat. You can do it, too!
These are the materials I used. I used our paint brand we own and produce, Missouri Limestone Paint Company chalk-style paint: Grannies Lace, Old Tin Barn, Bordeaux, English Ivy, and Possum Grape Jam. However, any brand and type of paint should do fine.
I used the side that was more ribbed. On my next one I will use the flatter side. This mat really soaks up the paint. This is the first coat. I eventually did two coats and then a little more to cover well the area that will be under the leaf stencil. The rest can have a more dry brush look.
I then placed the stencil on the mat and just started pounding the Old Tin Barn color on the spines and all around the leaf. You don’t have to do the whole thing at this point. I just did around the leaf area then removed the leaf stencil.
I then continued pouncing the Old Tin Barn color all around.
Using the same brush, without washing it out, I pounced the Bordeaux color on randomly over the Old Tin Barn, trying to blend it a bit.
Using the same brush again, I pounced on randomly the English Ivy color.
Using the same process, I added a bit of Possum Grape Jam color.
This photo shows all the different colors, much like you would see in nature in the fall.
The last step is to take the mat outside and give it a couple coats of the SPAR Urethane waterbased exterior sealer. It says it is gloss, but doesn’t show up gloss on the mat. I don’t think, once chalk-style paint cures for 30 days, a sealer is really needed, but in the meantime I think it just helps protect it a little.
And there it is! A beautiful Fall door mat. The pumpkin and acorn would also look nice.
And here’s my acorn one. I’m keeping this one. It’s pretty appropriate since we have a ton of oak trees (not to mention leaves) in our yard.
I made a Day of the Dead wreath from Dollar Tree materials, including the mesh tubing. I love how it turned out but it was a big one and took literally all day to make the wreath and paint the skull. See pic of it at the end. I used this tutorial to make the big one: https://gracemonroehome.com/how-to-make-a-deco-mesh-loop-wreath/
I had a pile of left over pieces of mesh tubing so instead of throwing it away, I used it to create a smaller version. I think it turned out pretty darn cute!
I had a small Dollar Tree Day of the Dead skull painting kit I used for this one. It is approximately 3 1/2” x 5”. It comes with several craft paints, but I chose to use our Missouri Limestone Paint Company chalk-style paint colors instead. I love how vibrant they are, but many chalk paints would work, too, as well as the paints that came with it.
I also made about a 9” wreath form out of 18 gauge wire we had here.
But, if you were going to use new pkgs of the DT mesh tubing, I would get maybe 3 pkgs (1 of each color). DT also may have a heavy wire that you can mold as shown below, and you will need the 3 1/2”x5” Day of the Skull paint kit. You will also need a pkg of pipe cleaners. I chose to use black.
I cut a piece of wire about 22” long.
I formed it into a circle about 9” round, then wove another row around in and out to make it a bit more sturdyand cut off any excess. I crimped the ends so they wouldn’t be sharp.
I wanted to make sure my skull would fit inside. I had already started painting it here. I also ended up removing the little stand as I didn’t need it.
I then cut the black pipe cleaner as needed into 4 equal pieces.
I cut the wire mesh pieces into about 6” lengths. I didn’t have enough purple, so I only did 3 of them to spread out. But if I would have had enough, this is the pattern I would use.
I put 3 colors together and then made 3 loops. I used the pipe cleaner piece and put it around and twisted them tightly together.
I then started attaching them to the wire form. I alternated the cut edges so they weren’t all going on the same direction.
I stopped adding when I got to a point where the skull would fit on the side with no wire showing.
I then painted the skull with colors that would go well with the mesh tubing. I used the black already on it as an outline, painting the face and teeth white, and painted colors inside the black lines. I also painted the back black.
I sealed it front and back with Mod Podge acrylic spray and Mod Podge Pearlized spray to give it a little shimmer.
Danny drilled tiny holes, big enough for the pipe cleaner to to through on the top and bottom and I used the pipe cleaner from the last pieces of attached mesh to hold the skull in place.
And there you have it. A mini Day of the Dead wreath next to the big one I made earlier.
1. I purchased these stone tiles as part of a package at Home Depot. I cleaned the them thoroughly.
2. I usually paint the tops and sides with our Missouri Limestone Paint Company chalk-style paint in “January” as white paint will really help the print stand out. But these coasters were already white on one side so I skipped this step.
3. I chose areas of the napkin that would look good centered on the tiles and cut them a little bigger than the coaster. I peeled off the two white layers of the napkin so that I was left with only the printed part. Sometimes napkins will only have one white layer.
4. For the decoupage medium, I used Mod Podge on this set. I applied a layer over the white paint and while still wet I applied the napkin. I used a piece of plastic wrap to press the napkin into the stone, making sure I had no bubbles.this plastic wrap helps to keep the napkin from sticking to my fingers.
5. Once dry, I used 220 sandpaper to sand the edges.
6. I then used 2 coats of Rustoleum spray lacquer on the tops and sides to seal the napkin. Using lacquer will not reactivate the poly, so no bubbles formed.
I used a painting technique to create a faux galvanized tin look to a plain black coaster holder.
You can see how I did this technique in another blog post, found here.
I enjoyed doing this technique so much I have used it on a variety of items.
I am not a newbie when it comes to painting shoes with chalk-style paint, specifically the brand we own and produce “Missouri Limestone Paint Company”. I’ve painted shoes made of quality leather as well as those that are from cheap man-made materials. Then I’ve worn the heck out of them. This latest pair I painted two coats and applied two coats of salve – all in less than an hour.
Would you like to know how I did it? First, a sneak peek to see the transformation in progress.
I started out by cleaning the shoes well with Windex. This is my go to cleaner for many things I paint.
All the added color on this pair is from our chalk-style paint. This paint is on there for good, trust me. Cleaning didn’t remove it, nor could I scratch it off. I didn’t want to sand it or use chemicals on it, so…. I painted over it. 😏
I also know from experience, our paint does very well on rubber. I painted a Rubbermaid mailbox several years ago….no sealer….and it still looks brand new today. So, I also painted the soles of this pair of shoes, but did not seal them.
I painted the first coat. It dried quickly, but so also helped it along with a hair dryer. You can see the reddish look coming through along with the spots from the original paint splatters. But look! No brush strokes! Our paint (when applied in thin coats), does not leave brush strokes.
It is time to apply the salve. I love Wise Owl Salve and keep it on hand for projects like this.
As you can see, I applied the Wise Owl salve on the left shoe so you can see what a difference it makes.
I applied the first coat of salve and buffed it. Then, I applied a light second coat and just rubbed it in, but did not buff. Remember, I DID NOT use the salve on the soles.
And there you have it! Another pair of shoes given a new life. I promise not to paint in these! I will periodically apply another coat of salve and buff it in.
1. Took the light apart and scuffed up the pieces. Cleaned well.
2. Sprayed all pieces with primer.
3. Painted with Metallic Silver waterbased paint. I put a small amount in plastic cup and painted out of it. I even painted the cord.
4. Added a little Medium gray color chalk-style paint to the metallic, stirred it in, and using a piece of natural sponge, I dabbed it on each piece. I used our brand we own and produce: Missouri Limestone Paint Company.
5. Then I added a little white and dabbed again all over.
6. Then I added some black and dabbed again.
7. Finished by dabbing a little silver metallic with a brush, making sure there wasn’t much paint on the brush.
What a makeover! This awesome slate topped huge coffee table was a custom job. We brought it back from the dead as it was in pretty rough shape with a finish that was the old thick rough and nasty varnish. Prepping is definitely the key! Quite the project, right? But once we finish, it will be perfect in the young person’s apartment (once moving day occurs). For now, it will go in mom and dad’s basement family room and still be used by young people. 🙂
The first thing you need to do is spend some time contemplating how to remove the top. Oh, and to find a place to store the slate top until needed again. No problem, it resided under our living room couch until needed. 🙂
The top sanded easily to get it smooth enough to paint. A good cleaning and two coats of our Missouri Limestone Paint Company chalk-style paint “Coal Shovel” and two coats of Varathane Crystal clear water based polyurethane in satin finish later, it was ready for curing.
Sanding the bottom piece wasn’t working at all. Danny got a good amount off with stripper, then I did another round of stripping with mineral spirits mixed in. That helped a lot. Then another round of mineral spirits. Cleaned well them sanded again. Used a tack cloth to get rid of any sanding dust. Then cleaned really well again. That finally got it smooth enough for painting.
Now came the task of lining the top and bottom holes for screwing it back together.
The beautiful slate top was rescued from under the couch and got a good drink of Wise Owl Lemon Verbena Salve. What a difference that made! It smells good now, too!
So happy how it turned out. This table is eventually going in a young person’s apartment. I can just see a group of young people gathered around it. Sitting on colorful pillows that could easily be stored underneath.
It was in good shape, but dated. It needed a makeover. We had sanded the top almost all the way, but it still needed a bit more to get it down to bare wood.
However, life got in the way and so it sat in our basement waiting patiently for its makeover.
A few days ago, it happened. I took the heat gun and stripped away the rest of the residue on the top, then sanded it smooth and hand scuffed the base. I cleaned it well.
I couldn’t wait to try out the DIY wood aging stain recipe I found and mixed up. It had been sitting waiting to be used for several weeks. I had tried it right after I mixed it up on a board. I think it reacts differently on different types of wood and it really hadn’t had a chance to darken the wood much. But, it turned out with a beautiful, natural wood look that I loved.
The stain is a mix of used coffee grounds, vinegar and steel wool. It doesn’t look very pretty in the jar, but wait until you see it on this oak table top!
The interesting thing is you don’t see how it is working until it dries. At first it looks like it is just darkening the wood (and it darkens more as it dries) but when it dries, ahhhh….there is that beautiful grayish cast….just like old barn wood that has been left out in the weather for years. And this photo doesn’t even do it justice.
Hmmm…..At this point I happened to notice a strange formation in the grain going across the top. In my eye, I saw a llama head and neck. There are actually 4 of them, seeming to march in a line across the table, but this one stands out more than others. Still not seeing it? Let me help you. Lol
So now I had the stain on, but I wanted to really enhance the old wood look so I sealed it with a mix of liming wax and clear wax.
I wanted to open up the grain for the liming wax to get into it and stay so I used a wire brush and carefully ran it across the table top, going with the grain.
The liming wax I used is by Briwax. I mixed some of it with Howard’s Chalk-tique light wax. You can use any brand of clear wax, though. Mixing them together gives you a little more control over the liming wax and provides a nice finish. I think you can purchase both of these products from several places like Amazon online.
The next photo shows half the table top with the liming wax combo and half without. What a difference the liming wax makes!!
Can you see my 4 marching llamas? I know…. they are hard to see. Lol
Let me help. 🙂
Here is the top all waxed and buffed. Again, pics don’t really show just how beautiful this table top is. The sheen of the wax is gorgeous!
By the way, did you know wax helps repel dust? So using wax on furniture that isn’t going to get a lot of heavy use will save you dusting time, too!
The little metal feet needed a makeover, too, so I took them off and spray painted them a metallic gold. So pretty now!
Now it was time to paint the base. Sometimes I use primer, sometimes I don’t. I didn’t on this one. I had just cleaned and scuffed it up really well. In retrospect, I wish I had primed this and I wouldn’t have had to use as many coats of chalk-style paint, especially since I wasn’t going to distress this piece. I used 4 coats of Missouri Limestone Paint Company “January”, a pure white. You tend to need more coats when using white or very light colors.
But all is well as chalk-style paint dries so quickly. Once the paint coats had all dried well I sealed the base with several thin coats of Varathane Crystal Clear water based polyurethane. I never have had a problem with yellowing in the 6 years I’ve been using it.
The secret is thin coats and no drips or pooling. I use a round damp car wax sponge to put on a thin coat and follow it with a sponge brush if needed to clear up any drips or pooling. For long areas I go in one direction only and work quickly. You can’t go back and forth or overwork the sealer or you will have a mess as it dries so quickly.
And now…. drum roll ….. My finished “llama table!” 😉 What a difference, right?
How pretty, right? You would never know that’s a can of garbanzo beans under there. 😁
I woke up this morning thinking I wanted to napkin decoupage a tin can and add a succulent to it. I had all the supplies except for the tin can. I did have a can of garbanzo beans, though. I didn’t want to waste food, so I decided to just decoupage the full can. I could always just open up the can later. I did realize, too late, that I shouldn’t paint the lid in case I do want to eat the beans. So I would not paint the lid the next time.
I gathered my supplies and got started.
I didn’t use the refried beans. That is there just to show you what a can of vegetables looks like with its clothes on compared to when it is naked. ☺️
I then painted the can, but next time I won’t, just in case I want to open the can later. I used two light coats of “Grannie’s Lace” from our brand of chalk-style paint Missouri Limestone Paint Company. It really doesn’t matter what paint you use. The can also doesn’t need full coverage. The napkin details will show better just by it being white.
The expiration date was already on the bottom of this can. I just added the name in case I forgot what was in there.
I trimmed the napkin to fit the can, leaving a little overlap on the top and sides. Also with napkins you need to pull apart and remove extra layers as you can see in the above photo.
I was now ready to decoupage. I spread a thick layer of Mod Podge onto the can. I cut down a small baggie and tape it small enough to slip my fingers into it like a mitten. I use the plastic to press the napkin into the Mod Podge. This keeps the napkin from tearing as it will stick to your fingers otherwise. Any little bit of plastic will work. You still must press carefully.
After decoupage dried, I sanded the rim of the top. The part sticking up will sand right off, leaving a clean edge. I then added another coat of Mod Podge all over to seal it.
Step 6: Final Step. I just added a little Spanish Moss and a Faux Succulent to the top. You could use a spot of hot glue to hold it in place, but I didn’t. After all, I may just want to open up that can of garbanzo beans. The moss and succulent will be easy to remove. ☺️
I bought this tray about a year ago and never really did anything with it.
It’s not really wood and it was a funky yellow color. But yesterday, I decided. I would create a rustic, driftwood finish on it ….
…. and plant a faux succulent garden. Those seem really popular right now.
I already had the two pinkish succulents and I found a few more at Dollar Tree at some point in time. I removed the clips attached to those and saved the clips. You never know when they could be used. 🙂
Using our Missouri Limestone Paint Company chalk-style paint, I paint washed the tray with “French Roast”, wiping it down before it dried. When dry, I dry brushed with “Sunday Silver”, let that dry, then dry brushed with “Winter Gloves”. When that dried, I sanded the whole thing with 320 sandpaper, applied a wax salve, and buffed it. I love the color now! It now has a rustic, driftwood look.
This morning, I added some mosses from Dollar Tree and now have a beautiful succulent garden. I just need to figure out where I will display it.