TIP OF THE WEEK: THANKSGIVING HOLIDAYS – Creating a Barn Wood Look With Paint on a Farm Table Top

You can create a barn wood like look on a table top using Missouri Limestone Company chalk-based paint and a stain_sealer. I have a step-by-step tutorial here to show you how!

For previous TIP OF THE WEEK click here.

The tip of the week is a little late thanks to Thanksgiving holidays. One of my sons and his two sons ages 4 and 17 months came to visit the week before Thanksgiving so need I say more.

My tip of the week for the Thanksgiving holidays shows you how I created a barn wood look on a table top. Plus I get to share the final results of the farm table set.  This is one of those projects I sure wished I had #1 – a garage to work in and #2 – that my dining room was big enough for me to keep it.  I posted pics of the progress and that generated so much interest, I sold it the day I finished it, so others liked it, too.

 

I did manage to get some time in to finish the huge farm table set I started (hoping to finish before Thanksgiving) the day after so that wasn’t too bad.  It took a couple of mornings getting up at 4:30 am to work on it before the little ones were up.  I really needed to get it out of the basement before everyone got here so we could get to the bed.  I was thinking we might have to sleep on it.  It sure was big enough. LOL

TIP OF THE WEEK

How to create a barn wood look with paint and Varathane’swater-based stain and sealer (I call this my magic stain).  I love it!  I debated about keeping this as my secret weapon, but I can’t do that.  I’m an educator and I just have to share what I have learned myself.  Hence the name of our paint company….SharSum Paint, a play of words based on my name Sharon Sumner (Share Some – get it?)

But first, some before pics of the table and chairs.

original-top originalbase originalchairs

farmtablebenchchairsbefore

The table and chairs were basically in pretty good shape.  We had to do some repair on some of the veneer under the table top and on the leaves and had to put the sliding mechanism back together, but this was a good sturdy set.

TIP #1:  Creating a barnwood type look on a table top.  I really didn’t know how this was going to turn out, so I did a practice piece and then decided to just go with it.  I really do love how it turned out and it is all due to my magic stain/sealer technique.

First, I gathered my supplies.  I used Missouri Limestone Paint Company’s chalk-based paint.  I needed Grannie’s Lace (an off white) Sunday Silver (a medium gray), French Roast (a dark brown) and Varathane water-based stain and sealer in Dark Walnut.

I painted the leaves and table first with the French Roast.  The pic shows a finished sample.

barnwoodlooksupplies

Next, I used Grannie’s Lace and dry-brushed over the French Roast.  Then, just a little of the Sunday Silver dry-brushed, and even less of French Roast again.  I then did a light wash of Grannie’s Lace.  I took dry paper towel and just started rubbing that wash in.  Sometimes I rubbed down to the French Roast and sometimes even harder down to the original finish.  The picture below shows the dry brushing.  UPDATE:  I did another table top after this (see pics at bottom of post).  I didn’t bother using the paper towel and rubbing it in.  Instead, I did a dry brush technique on the other colors (adding just a bit of water – not much) and tried to keep the brushing as straight as possible.)  It turned out as nice, if not better, with much less work.

2016-11-14_225107555_480a1_ios-1

The magic comes when I add the Varathane water-based stain and sealer.  I used Dark Walnut.  It somehow just blends everything all together and seals it at the same time.  You can see the white wash on the picture below.

2016-11-20_170958642_3595a_ios

The more coats you put on, the darker it becomes.  I used 3 coats on this table and leaves.  I very lightly sanded in between coats.  The result was a very smooth finish.  The sealer has a little shinier finish than I like, though, plus I always want to have a really durable surface on a table, so I added two coats of Varathane water-based satin polyurethane, which toned down the shine.  Every single time I would walk past the table top, I just had to admire it and feel the smoothness.  : )

So, there’s your tip of the week.  And now for the finished farm set.  By the way, we made a bench for this table out of 3 complimentary chairs.  Check it out on a previous tip of the week.The lady buying the set loved the bench.  She has two little ones and one on the way and she said she was worried about the benches with no backs and afraid the kids would turn them over too easily.  She loved how heavy and sturdy the chair bench was.

finishedbench finished-table farmtableset10 farmtableset9 farmtableset8 farmtableset7 farmtableset6 farmtableset5 farmtableset4 farmtableset3 farmtableset1

The 2nd table top I did is pictured below.

 

 

 

A Coffee Bar from a Dresser

Yes, please.  I wasn’t going to pick up my paint brush until after Christmas but….I just had to.  I felt the need to de-clutter after Thanksgiving and it came to me that I should make myself a coffee bar.  The piece could be used to store coffee cups, coffee, coffee pot, crock pot, toaster, and whatever else would fit and clear up some space in my small kitchen.

I just happened to have a long, narrow dresser that I hadn’t been able to decide how to finish.  I knew I wanted to paint the drawers different colors due to the way the top drawer was made.  So, Danny dug it out of our shed and we went to work.  He cleaned it up and I started painting.

coffeebar-original

The piece (I call it a dresser, but not sure what it actually was) is made of pine.  The top was in pretty good shape except for a couple of gouges and scratches.  Danny sanded the top a little and smoothed it out and then I used my secret weapon:  Varathane Water-based stain and sealer in Dark Walnut.  I love this stuff.  It goes on so smooth, really brings out the wood grain, and dries quickly.  I used 3 coats, sanding lightly in between.  It dries pretty shiny, though, and I wanted to use the semi-gloss water-based poly on the rest of the cabinet so I put two coats of it on after.  The top is so smooth, with just a little sheen.  I love the distressed look of the scratches and gouges.

coffeebartopwithstainsealer

After 3 coats of stain/sealer – pretty shiny

coffeebartopwithpoly

After 2 coats of poly – really toned it down. Now has a nice soft, sheen.

Then, I wanted to paint the base gray to match my kitchen cabinets, which were Annie Sloan Paris Gray.  So, I took some Missouri Limestone Paint Company “Winter Gloves” and mixed in a little dark “Gray Goose” and it came out pretty darn close.  You’d never know they weren’t exactly the same.  I painted the drawers the same colors I painted my chairs in the dining room. (“Sour Green Apple”, “Old Tin Barn”, “Trading Post”, and “African Violet”) I also bought some gray printed burlap at Jo-Ann’s for the doors and my daughter-in-law, Daphney, suggested adding chicken wire.  I found that at Hobby Lobby.  The chicken wire was the perfect final touch!

I’m very happy with the results.  It’s probably one of my favorite things I’ve done….possibly because I get to keep it.  That didn’t stop me from thinking, “Hmmm…I wonder if people would be interested in buying this coffee bar?”  After all, I have a dining room set to match and I can always paint another table and chairs.  : )  Nah…..I’m keeping this.  For awhile, anyway.  However, you never know that else will come up that I may want to paint just for me. But best of all, it has given me some counter top and  cabinet space in the kitchen.  Yay.

Meet my new coffee bar:

 

 

TIP OF THE WEEK: November 12, 2016 – DIY ANTIQUING WAX

For previous TIP OF THE WEEK click here.

Those who know us, know we recommend using toulene-free Briwax with Missouri Limestone Paint Company’s chalk-based paint.  It is so nice and buttery and goes on smoothly.  It rubs in well.  Then, with just a bit of buffing, you get a nice soft sheen.  Briwax does not take a lot of elbow grease and that’s always good.

Briwax does sell dark wax and we can and do get it.  It is great for a uniform color and if you have a very large project or do a lot of distressing with dark wax to get an antique look.  The consistency is a little different than the clear.  It goes into a liquid phase much quicker than the clear.  However, a few minutes in the refrigerator and you are back to a solid again.  This is normal, so don’t worry if your dark wax turns liquid.  Briwax also sells a liming wax.  I talked about liming wax in a previous Tip of the Week, when I did a tutorial on getting the restoration hardware look. Liming wax looks great over colors when you want to get that white washed beachy look.  I would not use it in bathrooms or kitchens, however.  For those areas, I would just thin down some white paint with water and do a wash.  Brush it on and wipe it off, then poly.

A good rule to follow when using any kind of antiquing wax – USE CLEAR WAX FIRST!  The reason is the clear wax base allows you to move the antiquing wax around more to get the look you want.  If you get too much just use a little more clear wax to wipe it off.  Without the clear wax, you won’t be able to work it as much and may not be happy with the final results.

Update:  It is very important to use Clear wax first on light colors.  On dark colors, however, I recently came across a tutorial in which clear wax isn’t applied first but in conjunction with the dark wax.  This produced beautiful results.  Keep in mind, you are still applying the clear wax before the dark wax has a chance to dry. https://sharsumpaint.com/2017/08/13/the-best-blackdark-wax-over-chalk-paint-tutorial-ever-by-jan-brown-kissick/

You also may not want to purchase a large can of dark wax or liming wax for just a small project or if you are experimenting with distressing techniques.  This is where this DIY tip comes in.  You can make your own antiquing wax with clear, toulene-free Briwax and any color of Missouri Limestone Painting Company (MLPC) paint you choose.  For liming wax I use “January” but I’ve made  antiquing wax with “French Roast” and “Grey Goose”, too. Can you use other waxes or paint?  I suppose, but I don’t sell those.  I stick to only what I like and use myself.

There is no scientific mix thing you need to know.  This is pretty simple.  I take about 2 Tablespoons of Briwax and mix in about 1 Tablespoon of MLPC.  Stir it well.  That’s it!  That’s all there is to it.  You can apply with a rag or brush. REMEMBER:  A clear coat of Briwax goes on first.  A tip I learned is to take one of the cheap chip brushes and cut about an inch off it.  You’ll then have a pretty sturdy, stumpy brush.  Applying your wax with this stumpy brush will let you dab it into all the nooks and crannies and move it around really well.  Make sure you don’t use too much and that you rub it in well.  You don’t want to have too much wax.  Let it dry for a bit and then buff.  Then apply your antiquing wax in the same way.  Work it around to get the look you are going for.  Then let it dry and buff.

That’s it!  This DIY tip is a great way for you to practice.  Go on….try it. It’s fun to distress with antiquing wax.

NOTE:  When using wax, you cannot seal it with poly after.  The poly does not work well on top of wax.  Remember the alphabet.  W is after P.  If you choose, you can apply a coat of wax over the poly.  Some people like to do that as wax helps repel dust.  But that is just a personal preference.  Poly is fine all by itself.

Electrical Spool Redefined as a Coffee Table/Bookcase

We’ve all seen these…..those spools in the hardware store that hold electrical wiring, etc.  You may not realize that at stores like Lowe’s (at least in my town) you can put your name on a list to get one of these for next to nothing.

Then, once you have one…..what to do with it?  I recently, thanks to my son’s father-in-law, received one.  It was a smaller one, the perfect size!  I forgot to take a picture of mine before the redefine, but it looked similar to this one…especially the top.  The bottom had 4 holes around the perimeter that matched the 4 top holes.

electrical-spool2

A quick search on the internet “electrical spool DIY” produce quite a few results.  One of the ideas I ran across was to make a coffee table/bookcase.  I loved that idea.  I also knew I wanted to keep all the imperfections in the spool so I chose not to sand mine.  My project was going to be to redefine my spool into a shabby/chic coffeetable/bookcase perfect for a lake house.  Why not beach house?  We live closer to a lake rather than an ocean and I think one that says lake house would sell much better….more market for a lake house table.  LOL

It’s a little difficult to see from the photo above but there are 4 washers and screws on the top.  I also decided to leave them as is and not paint them.  I did clean them good as they were kind of oily.  Now, onto creating my table.  Here’s the inspiration piece I found.

spoolbookcase_inspiration

Off to Lowe’s we went to purchase dowel rods….oops…stumbling block.  They had the perfect size dowel rod, but at over $6 a rod and we need 4 of them, that meant over $24 just for the rods to create the bookcase part.  Nope….that wasn’t going to happen.  So, we put on our thinking caps and decided pvc pipe was the way to go and off to the plumbing department we went.  They had a long piece that would make 4 the size we needed for a little over $3 for the piece.  Yes…..pvc pipe it is.  However, there was printing in black up one side.  We knew from experience that wouldn’t wash off.  So, off to the paint department we went.  We found a can of spray paint for plastic for about $6.  I knew I would use this again, so we purchased it and were on our way home.

The first thing Danny (my handyman husband) did was cut the pvc into 4 pieces just about the right length and then sanded out the existing 4 holes around the edge so the pvc pipe would fit.  It was just a bit too snug.  It didn’t take long and soon our bookcase supports were in place.  He then sawed them off even with the top of the spool.  We took them out again and gave them one coat of the spray paint for plastic.  (I wanted to have that base coat so that the chalk-based paint I would be applying later would have a good bond).

While that paint was drying, Danny turned the table over and added some wood on the bottom to create a stable base.  There were washers and nuts on the bottom, too, so without that (or casters – which were more expensive than I wanted) this worked out fine.  He made kind of an X pattern with the wood that fit around the nuts and washers.  He made one long piece and then two shorter pieces that formed the X and screwed them in place.  He also added on each edge, those little things you put on the bottom of furniture to keep it from scratching floors.  The ones he used were round and had what looks like carpet pieces on them that you tap into place.

I was now ready to paint the spool and bookcase supports with Missouri LImestone Paint Company’s (MLPC) chalk-based paint – “Front Porch”.  We put the supports back in and for good measure, Danny added a small screw on the inside of each one to make sure they stayed in place.  But they were a good type fit as he pounded them in with a rubber hammer so I don’t think they were going to go anywhere. I gave the whole thing one coat, allowing a little of the wood to peek through if it wanted to.  On the supports I also only used one coat.  A lot of the white showed through, but I liked that.  It looked like the front page color was just a wash over them and it created a nice effect.

Note:  All the other hole in the top of the table we left open, including the pvc pipe holes.  In interesting thing to note is at the bottom of the spool column there is a little hoe shaped like an upside down U.  I saw one idea that someone draped white Christmas lights down the big middle hole.  The plug would easily come through that little upside down U hole and you could plug them in.  That would make a nice effect at night.

After the paint dried, I cut a stencil from my Silhouette machine and stenciled “Lake House” on the top using MLPC “Sunday Silver” color.

The final step was mixing up some liming wax by adding some MLPC “January” to some Briwax and giving the whole thing a coat of wax….let it dry for a bit and buffed it.  I loved the effect of the liming wax.  The redefine was complete.  We are taking it to our storage unit “PopUp Shop” this morning.  Fingers crossed that it sells!  If not, I’ve posted it on Facebook’s marketplace and several local facebook swap shops, so hopefully it will sell on one of those if not today.

spooltable

A Custom Painted Wardrobe & Dresser

We purchased a Waterfall type wardrobe and dresser, but didn’t have a clue how we wanted to paint them.  I posted them on a couple of selling sites as is and offered to custom paint them.  Someone who had a vision loved them and knew exactly what she wanted them to look like.  And so the process to transform these pieces with good bones but needing a lot of work was begun.

wardrobeanddresseroriginal

She had seen a chest I had painted gray and with drawers left original.  The dresser drawers were in good enough shape that this would be possible to do.  So, we had a plan and started with that piece.

All the original pulls were there but they needed some restoration. I had found a product I loved called Rub n Buff.  I chose to use Antique Copper on the hardware and the result was amazing! This is a good video tutorial on Rub n Buff.  After  I buffed the dresser hardware, I sealed it with a couple of coats of water-based polyurethane to keep them looking good.rubnbuffhardware

Then came the transformation of the dresser.  I used Missouri Limestone Paint Company’s chalk-based paint “Gray Goose” on the base.  Due to the dark color and the old wood, I chose to then use a couple of coats of Minwax’s Sanding Sealer, sanding in between coats to even out the finish.  I applied 3 coats of Varanthane’s water-based satin polyurethane to seal and the finish dresseroriginalwas smooth as glass.

For the mirror and drawers I was able to keep the original wood.  I brought out the beauty of the wood with a couple of coats of Varathane’s water-based stain and sealer.  They turned out beautiful.

dresserfinished

Next up was the wardrobe.  My customer found an awesome inspiration piece on Pinterest.  I painted the outside of the wardrobe and the drawer fronts with Missouri Limestone Paint’s chalk-based paint with “Trading Post”, a beautiful turquoise.  The drawers and the inside of the wardrobe were painted with “Field Corn”, a bright yellow.

The inside of the inspiration piece had a dandelion decal.  We were able to find the same exact decal on Amazon.  I researched and found it was best to seal the decal with Modpodge.  I used two coats of Modpodge on the decals then sealed everything with 3 coats of Varathane’s water-based satin polyurethane.  I did not use the sanding sealer on the lighter color paint.  I also used Rub n Buff on the hardware.

This before awardrobeoriginalnd after restoration project is absolutely stunning.  This one is going to its new home today and now I can’t wait to start a new project.
wardrobefinished

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wardrobefinished1

TIP OF THE WEEK: November 3, 2016 – Steampunk Decor – Who Knew?

For previous TIP OF THE WEEK click here.

I have to admit, before I started painting furniture I had never heard of Steampunk or Steampunk Decor.

steam·punk
ˈstēmˌpəNGk/
noun
a genre of science fiction that typically features steam-powered machinery rather than advanced technology.

Steampunk incorporates technology and aesthetic designs inspired by 19th-century industrial steam-powered machinery. Steampunk decor will then have elements of machinery and the elegance of 19th century design.

I found this article does a great job of explaining Steampunk and Steampunk Decor.

http://www.impressiveinteriordesign.com/steampunk-interior-design-style-decorating-ideas/

Here’s what came up with a Google Search on Steampunk Decor.  Browse through some of these links to get an idea of the look.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=steampunk%20decor 

For previous TIP OF THE WEEK, click here.

Why am I so interested in learning more about this unusual interior design? I have a customer who really likes this and looks for pieces that will fit. So, I made it my business to find out…and you know what? It’s pretty fascinating stuff.

I’ve done a couple of pieces now for him. I call it a Steampunk type look. Not exactly the real deal, but reminiscent of true Steampunk.

The first piece was a marble top coffee table. The middle piece of marble was missing and had been replaced with glass. I painted the table black and bought a piece of fabric from Jo-Ann’s which featured some of the colors of Steampunk and included images of a map, post office stamps, etc. I covered a thin board and stapled it on the back. I put it under the glass (it fit fine as with the board and the glass, the width was just about the same as the original marble and ended up with a cool, Steampunk look coffee table.

steampunktablesteampunktable11

Then, this cool clock came to me through a friend and I thought it would really be a statement piece. I painted it black and an out of date nautical clock has now been elevated to a Steampunk look. My customer loved it and purchased it on the spot.
nautical-clock

I’m kind of liking this Steampunk Decor.

TIP OF THE WEEK: October 12, 2016 – My Secret for Using Water-based Polyurethane

Previous TIP OF THE WEEK

Note:  This is a long post, but hopefully it will save someone else hours of research to learn how you can get a beautiful, smooth finish on a piece of chalk-based painted furniture using a water-based polyurethane.  This is something that has worked for me. It may not be an industry approved tip or what others think is the best product to use, so keep that in mind.  I had one person tell me that it was pointless to use sanding sealer with paint.  It was only to be used on raw wood.  However, I’m a person who tried the idea of making Glitter Glue Slime with contact solution and it worked, so who knows what will work unless they try.  Right?

Disclaimer:  I do not guarantee this will work for every piece or for every person.  You just need to try it to see.  You may want to practice on an old piece first.

You’ve painted a piece of furniture with your chalk-based paint and now you want a durable, smooth finish….which polyurethane do you use and how do you apply it?    When I first started painting, these were my concerns…so I started researching.  I knew I wanted to use a water-based polyurethane.  This is the one I found to be the best:  Varathane Heavy Use Formula.

varathanepolyWhy this brand?  There are several reasons:

  1. No odor
  2. Easy Cleanup
  3. Fast Drying – although sometimes a little too fast so you have to work small areas at a time
  4. Satin finish
  5. And this is the most important – Crystal Clear – it does not turn yellow on light paint

 

As I started painting and sealing more and more furniture I started noticing that I was having difficulties in getting a smooth finish….not all the time, but more often when sealing over dark colors and after painting very old furniture.  It was very frustrating.

So, back to the Internet for more research.  I found others having the same problem.  I searched and searched and finally drew some conclusions from all the research.  Here’s what I found:

  1. Water-based paint raises the grain of the wood, creating an uneven surface
  2. The poly doesn’t go on smoothly when the surface is uneven
  3. Very old furniture is sometimes very dry and really soaks up the paint, creating an even more uneven surface.  This is especially noticeable with dark colors.

I found there was a solution to that problem.  It is called “sanding sealer”.  Who knew?  I had never heard of that before.  I do use shellac sometimes, especially on older furniture to seal in musty or smoke odors, on red woods such as mahogany, oak pieces to seal in the tannins, and wood with knot holes when I don’t want them showing through.  I still use shellac for that purpose even though it is not water-based, as it dries in about 15 minutes.  It even comes in a spray can.  I use it to spray the inside of the pieces.
varathanesandingsealer

Varathane has a sanding sealer also.  Yay!   It cannot be found in my hometown, however.  I love the Varathane products. It can be ordered online from variious places.  But, when unavailable, I also use Minwax water-based sanding sealer and have had good results.

So what does sanding sealer do?  It basically fills in the spaces around the raised grain and creates a smooth surface.  It also works as a sealer on odors like the shellac.

It is important to note that I use sanding sealer when painting with dark colors.  I don’t seem to have streaking issues with lighter colors, so I don’t use it on the lighter colors, unless it is very old dried out wood.  It is my belief that with the darker colors, the light picks up the wood not being even, creating the streaky look.

A word of caution when using sanding sealer.  Please use a thin coat and make sure you sand it afterwards.  If you put it on too thickly, it will turn yellow and you don’t want that.  So….thin coats and sand afterwards.  Always!  Use a very, very fine sandpaper.  320-400 would be good.

I now use sanding sealer on all my older pieces before I paint. I also always use it now after painting dark colors especially just because I want the smoothest possible surface before using the polyurethane.

How do I apply the sanding sealer?

  1. With a good synthetic brush (Purdy is a good brand) apply a thin coat of sanding sealer to your piece of furniture.
  2. I let this dry about an hour and then with a very fine 320-400 grit sandpaper, I lightly sand (with the grain). You will see it creates a powdery dust.  That is what you want to see.
  3. Do I apply sanding sealer once or twice?  That depends….sometimes I work with very, very old wood that no longer has a good finish.  Then I would apply the sanding sealer more than once.  If still in good shape with a good finish, I apply and sand only once.
  4. After sanding, I wipe all the dust away with a wet paper towel and then wipe down with a dry paper towel.

The finish on my older, dried out piece is now very smooth.  If it doesn’t feel very smooth, then I would apply the second coat and sand again.

Now my paint goes on smoothly and doesn’t soak in, so I’m saving paint here, too.

In the past, after I’ve painted my piece of furniture and allowed it to dry, I would start applying the polyurethane.  Sometimes, it would go on perfectly and sometimes I would become frustrated because no matter what I did, it would start “gunking” up or leave a very uneven finish.  I would apply it very thinly, going only in one direction and not go back and forth and only work in small sections, but still would not be happy with the results.  This wouldn’t happen all the time, though, so that’s why I couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong until I did my research.

The next application of the sanding sealer is where the magic comes in.  I now use the sanding sealer with ALL my pieces of furniture I have painted with dark colors after applyng the paint, even it I don’t use it before.

Steps for applying sanding sealer after using chalk-based paint:

  1.  Apply the final coat of chalk-based paint and allow to dry.
  2. With a good synthetic brush (Purdy is a good brand) apply a thin coat of sanding sealer to your painted piece of furniture.
  3. I let this dry about an hour and then with a very fine 320 grit sandpaper, I lightly sand (with the grain). You will see it creates a powdery dust.  That is what you want to see.
  4. Do I apply sanding sealer once or twice?  On painted pieces, I usually just do the one coat.
  5. After sanding, I wipe all the dust away with a wet paper towel and then wipe down with a dry paper towel.  If it feels nice and smooth you are ready for the poly.  If not, you may want to do another application of sanding sealer and sanding.

Why all these extra steps using the sanding sealer when it takes so much longer than just painting a piece and putting a sealer on it.  Because I want a quality piece of furniture when I’m finished.  I hand paint my furniture and I want it to look the best it can.  If that takes a little more time and care and less frustration, then I don’t mind it.  That is a much better solution that sanding down a “gunky” mess and starting over.

The first time I applied the poly (I use Varathane water-based polyurethane crystal clear satin finish)  to a piece after using the sanding sealer, I was ecstatic!  The poly literally glided off my brush (and again….I used a quality synthetic brush to apply the poly).  I didn’t have to worry about it going on too thick.  It went on thinly all by itself, just like magic.  I was able to go back and forth a little and then when I was satisfied with that, I ended the small sections I worked with going in one direction.  I lightly sand in between coats of poly with a very very fine sandpaper.

I usually use 3-5 coats of poly on the top of my pieces for durability and two coats on the rest of the piece.

You will be amazed at the difference the sanding sealer makes.  I now recommend using  the water-based sanding sealer and polyurethane when sealing furniture painted with our Missouri Limestone Company’s chalk-based paint.  It is well worth the extra time.

Here’s my piece I painted with Missouri Limestone Paint Company’s “Gray Goose”.  You can see the reflection of the mirror on this piece, but no streaking!  The finish is also as smooth as silk!
dresserfinished

 

 

 

TIP OF THE WEEK: April 15, 2016 – October 7, 2016

See our TIP OF THE WEEK page for newer tips.

The TIP OF THE WEEK came about through a facebook site my friend and I started, but I wanted to have them all in one spot.  I’m re-posting the ones I’ve written before here on my blog, then will post new weekly ones in separate posts.  I hope some of these help you as you paint with chalk-based paint.  Follow my blog to get notified when I post new Tips of the Week.


TIP OF THE WEEK:  October 7, 2016 (posted by Michelle)  😊 custom pieces are a unique way to transform traditional pieces into One of A Kind furniture. you can free hand or simply stencil a piece and completely change the style. I love seeing new ideas in furniture. These pieces were inspired by my friend, Leigh Ann. Thank you for the inspiration, to recreate a “New Look”

Posted Pics Before & After   Note:  Facebook photos
Pic 1: inspired by photo
Pic 2 – 4 Redefined pieces

Michelle Sohn Conrad's photo.
Michelle Sohn Conrad's photo.
Michelle Sohn Conrad's photo.
Michelle Sohn Conrad's photo.

TIP OF THE WEEK:  September 28, 2016 – Stripping furniture – I have recently, with my new-found love of the restoration hardware look, realized that there were some pieces of furniture I want to strip down to the raw wood even though with chalk-based paint that is not necessary. I remember, though, the old gel stripper I used to use. It was messy, nasty smelling, and if you got some on your skin, you could actually feel it burn. I didn’t want to relive those days. However, I did want to get down to the raw wood so the paint could get into the grain even more for that barn wood/driftwood effect. I did some research and found Citristrip. It is non-toxic, has a citris smell, and is water clean-up. It is available at Lowe’s for $11.98. I found it extremely easy to apply because Danny did it, not me. LOL Note: The table I wanted to strip was an old oak table with just a light coat of varnish. I’m sure if you had many layers of paint or heavy, dark varnish, it would take much longer and probably more applications. For this table, Danny brushed on a coat and let it set up for about 30 minutes. You could see it bubbling up. Then he scraped it off with a paint scraper. He cleaned it up with a wet paper towel and let it dry and it was ready for me to do the barn wood/driftwood technique on it. I won’t always be stripping furniture down to the raw wood, but when I do…I’ll have Danny use Citristrip again. : ) 

Update:  A new tip of the week – using Saran Wrap with Citristrip!  Check it out!

Sharon Strothcamp Sumner's photo.

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Old barn wood is all the rage right now. You can use this technique with our Missouri Limestone Paint Company chalk-based paint and a water-based stain and sealer to create this look of old barn wood. Here’s the tutorial: http://cececaldwells.com/barnwood/

Update: I couldn’t wait to try this so this morning bright and early, I got started. Of course, I didn’t take a before pic of my piece of wood, but it was a new piece of oak, I believe….light in col…

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This week’s guest blogger is our Retailer, Erin Gunckle Debri from Grand Ledge, Michigan. Many of you may recognize her as Lucky Star Lane. However, she…
CECECALDWELLS.COM

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Designer Knobs!  I can’t wait to try this! This tip even includes all these designs! And it mentions If you use Martha Stewart modpodge, you could even wash in the dishwasher after 28 days. It’s that durable.

Anthropologie worthy DIY cabinet or door knobs that look like hand painted designer ceramic knobs! Download beautiful designs to make your own set easily!
PIN.IT

TIP OF THE WEEK:  The Garden Rocker – It’s a seat normally used in the garden but has been “redefined” to use with painting furniture. “This ergonomically designed seat subtly rocks with you as you bend and stretch. The patented curved base reduces strain on knees & lower back while providing a full range of motion.”

I read about this seat on a blog called “Refunk my Junk” and knew I needed to find this as soon as possible. My knees and back really take a beating when I paint. The blog mentions you can find them at Tuesday morning. I didn’t have any luck in Cape Girardeau but I did find one at Lowe’s for $24.99. Can’t wait to try it out!

Here’s the blog link for the seat:http://refunkmyjunk.com/your-bottom-will-thank-me-4/

And here’s the link on how this blogger paints furniture:http://refunkmyjunk.com/painting-furniture-tips-tricks-turn/

Image may contain: 1 person , outdoor

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Save space and leave drawers in while painting – I love the space saving while painting idea behind this tip. I never thought about this. I will definitely be trying this on the next drawer project!http://pin.it/uxply5Y

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Restoring Hardware – While searching for something else last night, naturally I found yet another thing. This little jewel will make you jump for joy when it comes to working with the hardware on a piece of furniture. It is a product called “Rub n Buff”. Sometimes you just want to keep the cool hardware but it just doesn’t go with the piece anymore or it is discolored and unsightly. Never fear…..you can restore it, too! You don’t have to buy expensive new hardware. I can’t wait to try Rub n Buff!

1. You can paint and distress it with your Missouri Limestone chalk-based paint. : )

2. You can spray paint it…..I have found Amy Howard at Home’s white spray lacquer to work very well – makes it look like a piece of porcelain. Also, I’ve tried a metallic silver spray paint.

3. But last night I ran across a video of someone using Rub n Buff. This looks like a great way to finish hardware. I can’t wait to try this. I found you can purchase Rub n Buff online at Walmart and Amazon. But, I think places like Michael’s or Hobby Lobby may have it in their stores. You would have to check that out. It comes in a variety of colors.

Here’s a link to the video I saw last night and a link to a question and answer on Rub n Buff.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEuU_hZNMqE

Q & A: http://renewredo.blogspot.com/2012/10/rub-n-buff-q-a.html

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Video Tutorial – dry brush distressing technique over original finish. Enjoy!  Note:  This is a facebook video.


TIP OF THE WEEK:  I came across this site of a report about trending paint colors. It is interesting to note how many colors for 2016 trends are found in Missouri Limestone Paint Company’s Chalk-based paint. They work hard at staying on top of what colors are in fashion.

We’re taking a close look at the 2016 paint color trends and forecast reports highlighting paint colors are predicted to be popular in 2016.
WWW.THECREATIVITYEXCHANGE.COM|BY THE CREATIVITY EXCHANGE

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Adding a graphic image….I’ve tried many different ways of adding an image to a piece of furniture, wood, or fabric – some with success, some were complete failures. When I came across this technique, I thought I might be able to do this. I haven’t tried it yet myself, but it does look doable. I think at the very least it would give you a good enough image to enhance with paint (for the artists out there) or to touch up with a paint pen or Sharpie. I think I might be able to do that. So, if anyone tries it before me, be sure to let me know how it worked, and post your result pics here! Enjoy!

I want to show you How To Add A Graphic To Furniture The EASY Way. I decided to start with a little cupboard that was a gift. [media_id:3489893] When I first…
HOMETALK.COM

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Great ideas for Upcycled Furniture.

Over 20 of the BEST Upcycled Furniture Ideas – ways to turn Trash into Treasure! These ideas are a great way to repurpose old furniture & very easy to make!
KITCHENFUNWITHMY3SONS.COM|BY KITCHENFUN3SONS@GMAIL.COM

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Vaseline  distressing …. I love to try out news ways to distress and dshare what I learn. The last two pieces I’ve done, I wanted to get a chippy, shabby chic look so I thought I’d try vaseline as the distressing agent. I want to say this works perfectly and is very, very easy. I was lucky, too, that the two pieces I wanted to distress were already dark wood, so I only needed one color of chalk-based paint. Normally, you’d want two colors, one a base coat, then the vaseline where you want it to go and then the top coat. I found this tutorial very helpful when distressing with vaseline. I used my finger on my first piece and a cotton swab on the second. I think a small artist paintbrush is what I’d use the next time to help give me control of the vaseline.

Before I reveal a few tips I learned and show you how EASY it is to distress with this Vaseline technique, here’s the before and after and a few close ups. CHARMING!
SALVAGEDINSPIRATIONS.COM|BY DENISE

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Baby wipes for distressing chalk-based paint….who knew? Of course, my chalk-based paint of choice is Missouri Limestone Paint, available at Gift Emporium & Cafe’ in Sullivan. : ) Watch for sales, use coupons, buy in bulk…..Dollar Tree also carries a 90-count package.

I happened upon a new brand of Chalk Paint recently (not to be confused with chalkboard paint). Have you heard of CeCe Caldwell? Great all natural chalk paint…
TWENTYONEFIFTYNINEBLOG.COM

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Did you know you can paint those cheap white canvas shoes? They turn out great and are very quick to do. My grand daughter Lucy demonstrates how in this video. I also painted a pair for her brother Liam. I painted in the morning and he wore them by afternoon. Tip: Make sure the canvas shoes are plenty big. By the time we sprayed them with water and painted them, I think they might have shrunk a little, so get them plenty big enough.

Lucy demonstrates painting canvas shoes: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4jO-IG4PCRmcXd1ZUNJUEhNVm8/view?usp=sharing

Liam’s shoes:liamshoes

TIP OF THE WEEK: The Ultimate Redefined Tip: Taking Redefined to the next level….redefining a dead plant. I thought I’d share the painted pot/stick idea inspired by the botanical garden ones we saw in Germany. I just happened to have a plastic hen and chick pot (yes, you can paint plastic) left over from last year, complete with dirt and dead plant sticks already in place. How handy is that? I left the dirt to give it some weight. I painted the pot with one coat of Missouri Limestone Paint’s “Bourbon Street” then used the dry brush technique with a little bit of “Coral” on the pot and the sticks.

paintedstick

TIP OF THE WEEK:  (Posted by Michelle)  Bleach is not my friend, but Sharsumpaint is.
Well today started out with loads of laundry on my agenda. Several loads of white with Bleach. All went well until…I did a load of colors. Black, blue and grey. Simply loaded the washer, then.. added Bleach. To late…!! They were all a new style of polka dotted white & dark.
Okay this got me thinking. First: I’am a idiot for doing this. 2nd tye dye clothing would be a little too much 70’s for all my pants. 3rd what can I do to fix this? Then…like a light above the head (I do see the light on this one) I remembered Sharon Strothcamp Sumner paints. I has re- painted a cushion, so maybe I could salvage some of my clothes. ( Not wanting to buy a new wardrobe do to being, Bleach happy) it worked! My tip is, if you splatter bleach or as I, Added it to all your clothes in the wash. Paint them. The result was fantastic. Simply spray the area you are painting then water down paint slightly, let dry completely and it is a set in color.
I won’t share the picture of the clothing catastrophe. I will share the cushion. Before was a Ivory worn cover into a Coal Shovel (black) Sharsumpaint creation.

paintedchaircushion

paintedchaircushion1

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Canary Street Crafts Blog is one of my favorite reads. This post is spot on explaining when to prep when painting with chalk-based paints. Enjoy and be sure to check out other areas of this site!

Learn how and when to prep furniture before painting with chalk paint.
CANARYSTREETCRAFTS.COM

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Stenciling with Chalk-based Paint

I love my Silhouette machine for making stencils to use on the furniture I paint with Missouri Limestone Chalk-based paint. I can create just about any kind of stencil you can imagine…well within reason….as long as it is a pretty simple design. I will also sometimes, buy the design on Etsy, usually for a very reasonable price and cut it out on my machine. Another great source for plastic type stencils can be found at Gift Emporium & Cafe’ hanging on the door of the cabinet where our paint is on display. How handy is that!

It is very easy to stencil a design on your project using chalk-based paint. Why? It is easy to work with and dries so fast! If you have never stenciled before, you’ll need just a few basic supplies….a stencil, a stencil brush (just a cheapy from walmart is fine) your project, and…..of course….some Missouri Limestone Chalk-based paint. : )

You can use a foam brush or one with bristles but they should be the flat across type. I use contact paper when creating my Silhouette stencils. Contact paper of today is not that sticky stuff from the past. Sometimes it is called adhesive shelf liner. It doesn’t matter the color or print. I can sometimes find it at Dollar Tree and keep it handy for making stencils.

1. Whichever type of stencil you use, attach it to your project….if a plastic one from Gift Emporium, use painters’ tape to hold it in place. It is important that your project has had time to cure, about 24 hours is best, to ensure the tape won’t pull up the paint.

2. Dip your stencil brush in the paint, and then dob it on paper towel. This makes sure you don’t have a lot of paint on your brush. Start on the edges and work your way toward the center, dobbing up and down, quickly. When you feel you have covered all you want inside the stencil, allow the paint to thoroughly dry before removing the stencil. This usually only takes about 5-10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the paint you applied. I sometimes hurry that process by using a hair dryer.

Note: If you are using a plastic stencil over and over, be sure to wash it often so you don’t get a build up of paint that would allow new paint to seep under since it might not be laying flat anymore.

3. Carefully remove the stencil and…..your beautiful design will be revealed. I then use whatever topcoat I had planned for the piece, either wax or a poly seal.

I’ve included several examples of projects I’ve completed, using a stencil.

So, if you want to start doing some stenciling on your projects, head over to Gift Emporium to see what she has in stock, or PM me about creating a stencil for you on my Silhouette machine. Prices would vary, but not be expensive at all – you’d basically be paying for my time to make it….after all, the material is just Dollar Tree contact paper. : )

parisstencilfairestofthemallstencilgrandehotelstencil

TIP OF THE WEEK:  SharSum Paint’s Missouri LImestone Company’s chalk-based paint, carried by Gift Emporium in Sullivan, uses plastic lids on their jars of paint. Just sayin’….: )

5 Ways to open a plastic stuck on jar lid:

Have you ever struggled trying to open a plastic paint container? If any product lands on the containers rim, the paint ends up drying and fusing the lid shut. The next…
SALVAGEDINSPIRATIONS.COM|BY DENISE

TIP OF THE WEEK:  (Posted by Michelle)
I want to begin by saying. Do not feel challenged by painting and re creating your own finds. I was totally intimidated by all this chalk paint chatter. The paint looked so beautiful on furniture, it had to be difficult, I thought. This is the wrong mind set. After Sharon literally placed the first sample purchase in my hand and directed me to go home and try it. I loved it. I believe my first thoughts were, this is so easy a monkey could do this. Not to down play monkeys. I do love them.


The one thing I am trying to express is that you simply put one thin coat on let it dry, fifteen to thirty minutes, then re apply a second coat. Mission complete with a brand new style to a older worn out treasure. Anyone who can use a paint brush can easily do this. My tip is go create with this one of a kind limestone Sharsumpaint. Beautiful results with a rewarding feeling of self gratification that all is well in the world of creation. Thank you Sharon for the insisted introduction to your paints. I love them, and the future of furniture looks bright.

TIP OF THE WEEK:   I’m finishing up the “Ombre Desk” set. The desk is finished and I’m working on the chair. Won’t be long now. The desk is in really good shape and the drawers are in great shape, too. They smell just fine. However, I’m into essential oils and I have an oil from Young Living called Cedarwood. I decided I would wipe down the drawers with a mixture of water and about 10 drops of Cedarwood. I thought that might be a perfect scent for a wooden drawer, right? It smelled so good, I put a little oil on qtips and put one in each drawer for awhile. I love opening the drawers and getting a faint whiff of Cedarwood. You might try a favorite scent in the drawers of something you are working on or purchased.

ombredeskdrawerwithcedarwood

TIP OF THE WEEK: I’ve been working on a desk today that will be for sale soon. I am so pumped on how the drawers are looking, I just had to share. They are finished with 3 coats of poly and they are gorgeous. I’m calling this desk “Gray Ombre” as the drawers are varying shades of gray using Missouri Limestone chalk-based paint. Take a look at the drawer pulls in the original photo and then again in the finished drawer photo.

I love, love, love the Missouri Limestone Chalk-based paint we have for sale at Gift Emporium and Cafe’ in Sullivan, but I also love to use other products when I find something I like. In this case, it is Amy Howard’s Home spray lacquer “White Perfection”. You can buy it at Ace Hardware Stores. It is expensive but it makes old hardware look like porcelain. The knobs on the drawers are porcelain, but metal knobs can be painted, too. Now that you have this awesome tip, just be sure to use our Missouri Limestone chalk-based paint and move on past Amy Howard’s. : )   Gift Emporium and Cafe’s facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Gift-Emporium-CAFE-194319340843

drawerpulls

Restoration Hardware Look? Yes, Please! A Driftwood/Old Barn Wood Technique for Wood

My husband and I (SharSum Paint) are distributors of a brand of chalk-based paint out of Ozark, Missouri, called Missouri Limestone Paint Company.  Even better, we personally use the paint we sell and, through our business, teach classes to others on how to use it.  As a result, I’m always on the lookout for different techniques to try out and share with others.

Yesterday, I was on Pinterest, naturally.  I came across a tutorial on creating a driftwood/barn wood effect.  What was really interesting was how the author referenced the final result being reminiscent of “Restoration Hardware” furniture.  I had to learn more!

Old barn wood is all the rage right now. Here’s the excellent tutorial showing the method they used and was what gave me the inspiration to try my own version: http://cececaldwells.com/barnwood/

Of course, I took a little liberty with the tutorial and substituted our paint brand ( we all have our favorite brands, right?) and changed it from using a stain/sealer to using liming wax mainly because I wanted to try out liming wax. varathanewaterbasedstainsealer If I were going to do this on something like a kitchen table, I might use the method in the tutorial, or possible do the wash, then the drybrush, making sure to blend it in, then seal it with stain/sealer as the final step. I will try to get a sample using stain/sealer later.

I couldn’t wait to try this so this morning bright and early, I got started. Of course, I didn’t take a before pic of my piece of wood, but it was a new piece of pine, I believe….light in color. Anyway, it had some good grain in it. I also looked at the tutorial again and noticed there were quite a few steps listed to get the result of driftwood/barn wood…..the restoration hardware look. 1. gray paint wash 2. stain/sealer 3. dry brush white and 4. seal again. I decided I could create that look in 2 steps…(The older generation reading this might find this statement reminiscent of “I can name that tune in 2 notes”!)  : )

I remembered that liming wax will give the whitewash effect the dry brushing does. I also wanted to use wax rather than a sealer.  What is liming wax? It is basically a white wax – a clear wax with an added white pigment that gives a white grained finish, a white washed faded effect to your bare or stained wood or painted furniture. Liming works best on either open grained wood such as oak, pine or ash but is also beautiful on ornately carved furniture where the white wax will settle in the crevices and give a soft worn look (like antiquing with dark wax but cleaner and more gentle). Originally, lime was used for this technique, which is pretty caustic. Using a white wax will give you a similar look but it is safe to use  and at the same time will also protect your furniture and make it smooth to touch. What is even better is you don’t have to buy liming wax. You can make your own. I used the Briwax toulene-free clear wax we carry at a local store in Sullivan, Missouri as well as at our other locations in Bourbon, Cuba, and Rolla. I added a little Missouri Limestone Paint Company “January’, just eye-balling the amount…..I would say maybe 3 parts wax to 1 part January to start, and then stirred it up. It looked nice and white after stirring. Briwax is so easy to apply and buff. Not much elbow grease is needed at all. It does have a chemical smell, however, so I would make sure to work in a well ventilated area.

Here are the steps I used.  The finished result is below although the picture doesn’t show how truly beautiful the board is after this technique.

1. I poured a small amount of Missouri Limestone paint Company “Gray Goose”
into a small cup. I had another small cup of water. I dipped the brush into the Gray Goose paint, then dipped it in the water. I applied this thinned down paint to the whole board, adding more paint and dipped water as needed to cover. I let that sit for a few minutes, then wiped it off lightly with a wet cloth (I use baby wipes – they work great). I let that dry and then reapplied. The two coats is what darkened the wood more and then I didn’t need a stain.  I also didn’t need a poly sealer as I wanted to use wax to seal.

2. Then came the liming wax I made (see above). I did apply it with a round brush, really working it into the grain of the wood. I let it sit about 30 minutes or so and then buffed it out. I did two applications of this as well.

That’s it! Only two steps!   On a piece of furniture, I would go ahead and do one or two more coats of clear Briwax  for more durability.  Watch this site soon for a “Restoration Hardware” type piece of furniture I will be painting using this technique.

Here’s a photo of my finished board.  The photo, though, does reflect how truly beautiful this technique is.

driftwoodtechnique

Here are some picture frames.  They were raw oak.

But wait!  There’s more!  Here is my first finished piece – The Restoration Hardware Look – already sold!  I am 100% in love with this look.

Stay tuned for a post on my version of this technique using a stain/sealer.

Getting ready for a Vintage Artisan Fair

SharSum Paint will be a vendor at the Vintage Artisan Fair in Eureka, MO on October 1, 2016.  We will be demonstrating Missouri Limestone Paint and will (hopefully) personally have quite a few painted and vintage items for sale!  Our niece, Elizabeth, has been busy painting with our Missouri Limestone Company’s chalk-based paint, too, and we will have her items for sale also.

We worked on furniture repairs and painted outside all day yesterday. It was so nice outside!  Here’s a sneak peek at an end table I’m working on for the fair. It will have an oval one to match. They will be available at the fair, if I don’t break down and sell them before. Shabby chic distress. Missouri Limestone Paint Company “Winter Gloves” dry brushed over the solid oak table. Drawers are painted with “Winter Gloves” then a coat of “Front Porch”. Distressed with steel wool to produce gray shading. Finished with Briwax. Waiting for painted hardware to dry. Ready to start the oval one to match. But not today.

shabbyoakrectangle


shabbyoakrectangle1

shabbyoakrecandoval

Here’s a few more items we plan on bringing (if they don’t sell first!

spigots 1880ssofatable groupofitemsforfair

spigots farmcabinet1 waterfallset vintage-chairs