A Faux Galvanized Tin Hanging Pendant Light

https://sharsumpaint.com/2020/08/06/a-faux-galvanized-tin-hanging-pendant-light/

I found a great tutorial for creating faux galvanized tin using paint. I repurposed this brass plated hanging pendant light and it looks like the real thing.

The tutorial shows it on a cardboard box. Since I was painting on metal, I used a spray primer first.

https://shellyhickox.blogspot.com/2015/04/decoart-media-faux-galvanized-canisters.html?m=1

This is what I did:

1. Took the light apart and scuffed up the pieces. Cleaned well.

2. Sprayed all pieces with primer.

3. Painted with Metallic Silver waterbased paint. I put a small amount in plastic cup and painted out of it. I even painted the cord.

4. Added a little Medium gray color chalk-style paint to the metallic, stirred it in, and using a piece of natural sponge, I dabbed it on each piece. I used our brand we own and produce: Missouri Limestone Paint Company.

5. Then I added a little white and dabbed again all over.

6. Then I added some black and dabbed again.

7. Finished by dabbing a little silver metallic with a brush, making sure there wasn’t much paint on the brush.

8. Sealed with Wise Owl Salve.

A Round Pedestal Table Gets an Amazing Makeover

I found this small (20.75” tall and 24” wide) solid wood table at a flea market about a year ago.

https://sharsumpaint.com/2020/07/16/a-round-pedestal-table-gets-an-amazing-makeover/

It was in good shape, but dated. It needed a makeover. We had sanded the top almost all the way, but it still needed a bit more to get it down to bare wood.

However, life got in the way and so it sat in our basement waiting patiently for its makeover.

A few days ago, it happened. I took the heat gun and stripped away the rest of the residue on the top, then sanded it smooth and hand scuffed the base. I cleaned it well.

I couldn’t wait to try out the DIY wood aging stain recipe I found and mixed up. It had been sitting waiting to be used for several weeks. I had tried it right after I mixed it up on a board. I think it reacts differently on different types of wood and it really hadn’t had a chance to darken the wood much. But, it turned out with a beautiful, natural wood look that I loved.

The stain is a mix of used coffee grounds, vinegar and steel wool. It doesn’t look very pretty in the jar, but wait until you see it on this oak table top!

Here’s the link to the DIY tutorial I found and used: https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/how-to-stain-unfinished-wood-with-used-coffee-grounds/?_cmp=stf

The interesting thing is you don’t see how it is working until it dries. At first it looks like it is just darkening the wood (and it darkens more as it dries) but when it dries, ahhhh….there is that beautiful grayish cast….just like old barn wood that has been left out in the weather for years. And this photo doesn’t even do it justice.

Hmmm…..At this point I happened to notice a strange formation in the grain going across the top. In my eye, I saw a llama head and neck. There are actually 4 of them, seeming to march in a line across the table, but this one stands out more than others. Still not seeing it? Let me help you. Lol

So now I had the stain on, but I wanted to really enhance the old wood look so I sealed it with a mix of liming wax and clear wax.

I wanted to open up the grain for the liming wax to get into it and stay so I used a wire brush and carefully ran it across the table top, going with the grain.

The liming wax I used is by Briwax. I mixed some of it with Howard’s Chalk-tique light wax. You can use any brand of clear wax, though. Mixing them together gives you a little more control over the liming wax and provides a nice finish. I think you can purchase both of these products from several places like Amazon online.

The next photo shows half the table top with the liming wax combo and half without. What a difference the liming wax makes!!

Can you see my 4 marching llamas? I know…. they are hard to see. Lol

Let me help. 🙂

Here is the top all waxed and buffed. Again, pics don’t really show just how beautiful this table top is. The sheen of the wax is gorgeous!

By the way, did you know wax helps repel dust? So using wax on furniture that isn’t going to get a lot of heavy use will save you dusting time, too!

The little metal feet needed a makeover, too, so I took them off and spray painted them a metallic gold. So pretty now!

Now it was time to paint the base. Sometimes I use primer, sometimes I don’t. I didn’t on this one. I had just cleaned and scuffed it up really well. In retrospect, I wish I had primed this and I wouldn’t have had to use as many coats of chalk-style paint, especially since I wasn’t going to distress this piece. I used 4 coats of Missouri Limestone Paint Company “January”, a pure white. You tend to need more coats when using white or very light colors.

But all is well as chalk-style paint dries so quickly. Once the paint coats had all dried well I sealed the base with several thin coats of Varathane Crystal Clear water based polyurethane. I never have had a problem with yellowing in the 6 years I’ve been using it.

The secret is thin coats and no drips or pooling. I use a round damp car wax sponge to put on a thin coat and follow it with a sponge brush if needed to clear up any drips or pooling. For long areas I go in one direction only and work quickly. You can’t go back and forth or overwork the sealer or you will have a mess as it dries so quickly.

And now…. drum roll ….. My finished “llama table!” 😉 What a difference, right?

The Best Black/Dark Wax over Chalk Paint Tutorial Ever! by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep7janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep27I love finding great tutorials to help me with techniques I want to learn while painting with chalk-based paints.  Sometimes you find that perfect one and think…..where was that tutorial when I needed it?? Like that time when I didn’t know what I was doing applying dark wax to a green cabinet and it turned out looking like camouflage. Raise your hand if you know what I mean.

Well, wonder no more on how to apply dark wax.  This tutorial by Jan will provide you with clear step-by-step instructions that you will want to save. Trust me…..it is good!

First of all I want to make it very clear this was not written by me.  I make camouflage pieces, remember?  This excellent tutorial was written by Jan Brown Kissick who has kindly given me permission to use her photos and her words to share this with all of you.

Jan wrote this tutorial in a post for a chalk painting Facebook group I belong to called Chalk Paint, Distress and Decoupage.  Good info here.  If you’d like to join, here’s the link:  https://www.facebook.com/groups/Chalkpaint101/

I will stop rambling now and share Jan’s tutorial in her own words.

********

Steps I Do for a Black/Dark Wax Tutorial by Jan Brown Kissick

Ok someone has asked me to show the steps I do for black/dark wax. {EDITED: following Steps are for when using a darker color of paint and only based off of my experience with Annie Sloan products! Use clear wax first on lighter paint colors–immediately–do not let sit before starting your dark/black wax!} I’ll state that I’m definitely not a pro but I’m not brand new either. I’ve learned a lot of lessons the hard way and I’m sure there’s still more to learn! Hope this helps you all! There are captions with each picture.

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep1

1. Set up old movie on your tablet for entertainment I get tired of music so like listening to (love Audrey H!) Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep2

2. 1 paper plate for clear wax, 1 for black/dark Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep3

3. spoonful of clear wax Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep4

4. Spoonful of black wax Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep5

5. Cut down cheap chip brush –load with black wax Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep6

6. Scott shop towels Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep7

7. 2 coats of paint fully dried AS Emperors Silk. Anyone else hearing clown 🤡 music? I don’t like this red without black wax. If you do great! It’s just not me. So let’s add black wax. Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep8

8. Brushing on black wax in small sections-(only doing black first bc it’s a darker pigment paint color. If yours is light, then start with clear. Recommend trying small spot to see how black wax first works for you and follow remaining steps) Photos by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep9

9. Looks like crap right? 💩🤣 Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep10

10. Tear off towel and fold into fourths ( or whatever’s comfortable for you) Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep11

11. Wipe off wax as much as possible turn over cloth often,otherwise you will just put wax back on. Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep12

12. Now get clear wax on new section of towel or get new towel. Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep13

13. Not a whole lot but make sure you get some! Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep14

14.  I “dab” the clear wax on  Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep15

15. Then wipe it off. Remember to turn cloth over often!! Or will create “bare spots” Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep16

16. Keep wiping, adding more clear wax until blended well. Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep17

17. Blended! (Top of arm) Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep18

18. Applied the black wax… Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep19

19. Blended! Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep20

20. 😳😳are you scared??? This is when you panic right???😳😳😳 Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep21

21. It will be okay! Keep adding clear, keep blending, remember to turn that cloth over and get new cloth! Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep22

22. Blending… Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep23

23. Okay…maybe there’s hope… Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep24

24. Not worrying about that bottom too much. Will have a cushion over it. Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep25

25. Look at that leg! 😎😎 Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep26

26. Ta-da!!! Done!!!! Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep27

27. Happy!! 😍😍😍 Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

Some addtional comments from Jan after questions on group post:

  •  If using a light color do clear wax first. If using a large surface like a table, buffet, dresser I use a wax brush for the clear to apply but always blend with cloth. Don’t want to get dark wax on your clear wax brush.
  • clear wax–if only using clear–the technique is different. Just making sure I clarify that.
  • On lighter colors…yes do clear first. Colors with more pigment should be fine with black first. Try it first as I suppose it will depend on your piece. Hope it works for you as It will save you wax!
  • want to make sure not misleading people into thinking you don’t need to do clear wax first–you will on lighter colors! Also this is only for Annie Sloan’s products. I’ve used other products in the past and I never had much luck with them. Not sure they will work the same. Thanks everyone for the great feedback. My first tutorial so I’m learning how to do this too! Next time I make up a glaze with dark wax I’ll do one for that.
  • And do small sections. Don’t let the first layer of clear dry! Right after clear, then add black, do it immediately, then add the clear.
  • wanted to add that you can break after a section, just don’t stop in the middle of the section. Hope that makes sense. In other words I did half the chair last night and half today.
  •  if you’re going to do dark/black wax too then do all at once in sections. You can stop and pause between sections but don’t pause within a section. You don’t want the black/clear to dry too much. I do sometimes come back the next day and still wipe it down again with more clear if I find streaks–it’s possible–I just say don’t stop mid-section as a rule.
  • And I do always buff pieces next day regardless if just clear or a mixture. Gets off the residue and makes them shine!
  • the wax will harden and no longer be tacky when it’s sealed. I have pieces I’ve spilled coffee with no damage and my dog threw up on a table 🤢 and it cleaned right up. No signs of any of it.
  •  I’ll do a tutorial for my next dark wax that is more of a glaze technique.

I don’t know about you, but I’m looking forward to Jan’s next tutorial!  Fingers crossed she will let me share it here, too!

 

 

 

 

 

 

TIP OF THE WEEK: April 15, 2016 – October 7, 2016

See our TIP OF THE WEEK page for newer tips.

The TIP OF THE WEEK came about through a facebook site my friend and I started, but I wanted to have them all in one spot.  I’m re-posting the ones I’ve written before here on my blog, then will post new weekly ones in separate posts.  I hope some of these help you as you paint with chalk-based paint.  Follow my blog to get notified when I post new Tips of the Week.


TIP OF THE WEEK:  October 7, 2016 (posted by Michelle)  😊 custom pieces are a unique way to transform traditional pieces into One of A Kind furniture. you can free hand or simply stencil a piece and completely change the style. I love seeing new ideas in furniture. These pieces were inspired by my friend, Leigh Ann. Thank you for the inspiration, to recreate a “New Look”

Posted Pics Before & After   Note:  Facebook photos
Pic 1: inspired by photo
Pic 2 – 4 Redefined pieces

Michelle Sohn Conrad's photo.
Michelle Sohn Conrad's photo.
Michelle Sohn Conrad's photo.
Michelle Sohn Conrad's photo.

TIP OF THE WEEK:  September 28, 2016 – Stripping furniture – I have recently, with my new-found love of the restoration hardware look, realized that there were some pieces of furniture I want to strip down to the raw wood even though with chalk-based paint that is not necessary. I remember, though, the old gel stripper I used to use. It was messy, nasty smelling, and if you got some on your skin, you could actually feel it burn. I didn’t want to relive those days. However, I did want to get down to the raw wood so the paint could get into the grain even more for that barn wood/driftwood effect. I did some research and found Citristrip. It is non-toxic, has a citris smell, and is water clean-up. It is available at Lowe’s for $11.98. I found it extremely easy to apply because Danny did it, not me. LOL Note: The table I wanted to strip was an old oak table with just a light coat of varnish. I’m sure if you had many layers of paint or heavy, dark varnish, it would take much longer and probably more applications. For this table, Danny brushed on a coat and let it set up for about 30 minutes. You could see it bubbling up. Then he scraped it off with a paint scraper. He cleaned it up with a wet paper towel and let it dry and it was ready for me to do the barn wood/driftwood technique on it. I won’t always be stripping furniture down to the raw wood, but when I do…I’ll have Danny use Citristrip again. : ) 

Update:  A new tip of the week – using Saran Wrap with Citristrip!  Check it out!

Sharon Strothcamp Sumner's photo.

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Old barn wood is all the rage right now. You can use this technique with our Missouri Limestone Paint Company chalk-based paint and a water-based stain and sealer to create this look of old barn wood. Here’s the tutorial: http://cececaldwells.com/barnwood/

Update: I couldn’t wait to try this so this morning bright and early, I got started. Of course, I didn’t take a before pic of my piece of wood, but it was a new piece of oak, I believe….light in col…

Continue Reading

This week’s guest blogger is our Retailer, Erin Gunckle Debri from Grand Ledge, Michigan. Many of you may recognize her as Lucky Star Lane. However, she…
CECECALDWELLS.COM

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Designer Knobs!  I can’t wait to try this! This tip even includes all these designs! And it mentions If you use Martha Stewart modpodge, you could even wash in the dishwasher after 28 days. It’s that durable.

Anthropologie worthy DIY cabinet or door knobs that look like hand painted designer ceramic knobs! Download beautiful designs to make your own set easily!
PIN.IT

TIP OF THE WEEK:  The Garden Rocker – It’s a seat normally used in the garden but has been “redefined” to use with painting furniture. “This ergonomically designed seat subtly rocks with you as you bend and stretch. The patented curved base reduces strain on knees & lower back while providing a full range of motion.”

I read about this seat on a blog called “Refunk my Junk” and knew I needed to find this as soon as possible. My knees and back really take a beating when I paint. The blog mentions you can find them at Tuesday morning. I didn’t have any luck in Cape Girardeau but I did find one at Lowe’s for $24.99. Can’t wait to try it out!

Here’s the blog link for the seat:http://refunkmyjunk.com/your-bottom-will-thank-me-4/

And here’s the link on how this blogger paints furniture:http://refunkmyjunk.com/painting-furniture-tips-tricks-turn/

Image may contain: 1 person , outdoor

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Save space and leave drawers in while painting – I love the space saving while painting idea behind this tip. I never thought about this. I will definitely be trying this on the next drawer project!http://pin.it/uxply5Y

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Restoring Hardware – While searching for something else last night, naturally I found yet another thing. This little jewel will make you jump for joy when it comes to working with the hardware on a piece of furniture. It is a product called “Rub n Buff”. Sometimes you just want to keep the cool hardware but it just doesn’t go with the piece anymore or it is discolored and unsightly. Never fear…..you can restore it, too! You don’t have to buy expensive new hardware. I can’t wait to try Rub n Buff!

1. You can paint and distress it with your Missouri Limestone chalk-based paint. : )

2. You can spray paint it…..I have found Amy Howard at Home’s white spray lacquer to work very well – makes it look like a piece of porcelain. Also, I’ve tried a metallic silver spray paint.

3. But last night I ran across a video of someone using Rub n Buff. This looks like a great way to finish hardware. I can’t wait to try this. I found you can purchase Rub n Buff online at Walmart and Amazon. But, I think places like Michael’s or Hobby Lobby may have it in their stores. You would have to check that out. It comes in a variety of colors.

Here’s a link to the video I saw last night and a link to a question and answer on Rub n Buff.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEuU_hZNMqE

Q & A: http://renewredo.blogspot.com/2012/10/rub-n-buff-q-a.html

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Video Tutorial – dry brush distressing technique over original finish. Enjoy!  Note:  This is a facebook video.


TIP OF THE WEEK:  I came across this site of a report about trending paint colors. It is interesting to note how many colors for 2016 trends are found in Missouri Limestone Paint Company’s Chalk-based paint. They work hard at staying on top of what colors are in fashion.

We’re taking a close look at the 2016 paint color trends and forecast reports highlighting paint colors are predicted to be popular in 2016.
WWW.THECREATIVITYEXCHANGE.COM|BY THE CREATIVITY EXCHANGE

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Adding a graphic image….I’ve tried many different ways of adding an image to a piece of furniture, wood, or fabric – some with success, some were complete failures. When I came across this technique, I thought I might be able to do this. I haven’t tried it yet myself, but it does look doable. I think at the very least it would give you a good enough image to enhance with paint (for the artists out there) or to touch up with a paint pen or Sharpie. I think I might be able to do that. So, if anyone tries it before me, be sure to let me know how it worked, and post your result pics here! Enjoy!

I want to show you How To Add A Graphic To Furniture The EASY Way. I decided to start with a little cupboard that was a gift. [media_id:3489893] When I first…
HOMETALK.COM

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Great ideas for Upcycled Furniture.

Over 20 of the BEST Upcycled Furniture Ideas – ways to turn Trash into Treasure! These ideas are a great way to repurpose old furniture & very easy to make!
KITCHENFUNWITHMY3SONS.COM|BY KITCHENFUN3SONS@GMAIL.COM

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Vaseline  distressing …. I love to try out news ways to distress and dshare what I learn. The last two pieces I’ve done, I wanted to get a chippy, shabby chic look so I thought I’d try vaseline as the distressing agent. I want to say this works perfectly and is very, very easy. I was lucky, too, that the two pieces I wanted to distress were already dark wood, so I only needed one color of chalk-based paint. Normally, you’d want two colors, one a base coat, then the vaseline where you want it to go and then the top coat. I found this tutorial very helpful when distressing with vaseline. I used my finger on my first piece and a cotton swab on the second. I think a small artist paintbrush is what I’d use the next time to help give me control of the vaseline.

Before I reveal a few tips I learned and show you how EASY it is to distress with this Vaseline technique, here’s the before and after and a few close ups. CHARMING!
SALVAGEDINSPIRATIONS.COM|BY DENISE

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Baby wipes for distressing chalk-based paint….who knew? Of course, my chalk-based paint of choice is Missouri Limestone Paint, available at Gift Emporium & Cafe’ in Sullivan. : ) Watch for sales, use coupons, buy in bulk…..Dollar Tree also carries a 90-count package.

I happened upon a new brand of Chalk Paint recently (not to be confused with chalkboard paint). Have you heard of CeCe Caldwell? Great all natural chalk paint…
TWENTYONEFIFTYNINEBLOG.COM

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Did you know you can paint those cheap white canvas shoes? They turn out great and are very quick to do. My grand daughter Lucy demonstrates how in this video. I also painted a pair for her brother Liam. I painted in the morning and he wore them by afternoon. Tip: Make sure the canvas shoes are plenty big. By the time we sprayed them with water and painted them, I think they might have shrunk a little, so get them plenty big enough.

Lucy demonstrates painting canvas shoes: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4jO-IG4PCRmcXd1ZUNJUEhNVm8/view?usp=sharing

Liam’s shoes:liamshoes

TIP OF THE WEEK: The Ultimate Redefined Tip: Taking Redefined to the next level….redefining a dead plant. I thought I’d share the painted pot/stick idea inspired by the botanical garden ones we saw in Germany. I just happened to have a plastic hen and chick pot (yes, you can paint plastic) left over from last year, complete with dirt and dead plant sticks already in place. How handy is that? I left the dirt to give it some weight. I painted the pot with one coat of Missouri Limestone Paint’s “Bourbon Street” then used the dry brush technique with a little bit of “Coral” on the pot and the sticks.

paintedstick

TIP OF THE WEEK:  (Posted by Michelle)  Bleach is not my friend, but Sharsumpaint is.
Well today started out with loads of laundry on my agenda. Several loads of white with Bleach. All went well until…I did a load of colors. Black, blue and grey. Simply loaded the washer, then.. added Bleach. To late…!! They were all a new style of polka dotted white & dark.
Okay this got me thinking. First: I’am a idiot for doing this. 2nd tye dye clothing would be a little too much 70’s for all my pants. 3rd what can I do to fix this? Then…like a light above the head (I do see the light on this one) I remembered Sharon Strothcamp Sumner paints. I has re- painted a cushion, so maybe I could salvage some of my clothes. ( Not wanting to buy a new wardrobe do to being, Bleach happy) it worked! My tip is, if you splatter bleach or as I, Added it to all your clothes in the wash. Paint them. The result was fantastic. Simply spray the area you are painting then water down paint slightly, let dry completely and it is a set in color.
I won’t share the picture of the clothing catastrophe. I will share the cushion. Before was a Ivory worn cover into a Coal Shovel (black) Sharsumpaint creation.

paintedchaircushion

paintedchaircushion1

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Canary Street Crafts Blog is one of my favorite reads. This post is spot on explaining when to prep when painting with chalk-based paints. Enjoy and be sure to check out other areas of this site!

Learn how and when to prep furniture before painting with chalk paint.
CANARYSTREETCRAFTS.COM

TIP OF THE WEEK:  Stenciling with Chalk-based Paint

I love my Silhouette machine for making stencils to use on the furniture I paint with Missouri Limestone Chalk-based paint. I can create just about any kind of stencil you can imagine…well within reason….as long as it is a pretty simple design. I will also sometimes, buy the design on Etsy, usually for a very reasonable price and cut it out on my machine. Another great source for plastic type stencils can be found at Gift Emporium & Cafe’ hanging on the door of the cabinet where our paint is on display. How handy is that!

It is very easy to stencil a design on your project using chalk-based paint. Why? It is easy to work with and dries so fast! If you have never stenciled before, you’ll need just a few basic supplies….a stencil, a stencil brush (just a cheapy from walmart is fine) your project, and…..of course….some Missouri Limestone Chalk-based paint. : )

You can use a foam brush or one with bristles but they should be the flat across type. I use contact paper when creating my Silhouette stencils. Contact paper of today is not that sticky stuff from the past. Sometimes it is called adhesive shelf liner. It doesn’t matter the color or print. I can sometimes find it at Dollar Tree and keep it handy for making stencils.

1. Whichever type of stencil you use, attach it to your project….if a plastic one from Gift Emporium, use painters’ tape to hold it in place. It is important that your project has had time to cure, about 24 hours is best, to ensure the tape won’t pull up the paint.

2. Dip your stencil brush in the paint, and then dob it on paper towel. This makes sure you don’t have a lot of paint on your brush. Start on the edges and work your way toward the center, dobbing up and down, quickly. When you feel you have covered all you want inside the stencil, allow the paint to thoroughly dry before removing the stencil. This usually only takes about 5-10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the paint you applied. I sometimes hurry that process by using a hair dryer.

Note: If you are using a plastic stencil over and over, be sure to wash it often so you don’t get a build up of paint that would allow new paint to seep under since it might not be laying flat anymore.

3. Carefully remove the stencil and…..your beautiful design will be revealed. I then use whatever topcoat I had planned for the piece, either wax or a poly seal.

I’ve included several examples of projects I’ve completed, using a stencil.

So, if you want to start doing some stenciling on your projects, head over to Gift Emporium to see what she has in stock, or PM me about creating a stencil for you on my Silhouette machine. Prices would vary, but not be expensive at all – you’d basically be paying for my time to make it….after all, the material is just Dollar Tree contact paper. : )

parisstencilfairestofthemallstencilgrandehotelstencil

TIP OF THE WEEK:  SharSum Paint’s Missouri LImestone Company’s chalk-based paint, carried by Gift Emporium in Sullivan, uses plastic lids on their jars of paint. Just sayin’….: )

5 Ways to open a plastic stuck on jar lid:

Have you ever struggled trying to open a plastic paint container? If any product lands on the containers rim, the paint ends up drying and fusing the lid shut. The next…
SALVAGEDINSPIRATIONS.COM|BY DENISE

TIP OF THE WEEK:  (Posted by Michelle)
I want to begin by saying. Do not feel challenged by painting and re creating your own finds. I was totally intimidated by all this chalk paint chatter. The paint looked so beautiful on furniture, it had to be difficult, I thought. This is the wrong mind set. After Sharon literally placed the first sample purchase in my hand and directed me to go home and try it. I loved it. I believe my first thoughts were, this is so easy a monkey could do this. Not to down play monkeys. I do love them.


The one thing I am trying to express is that you simply put one thin coat on let it dry, fifteen to thirty minutes, then re apply a second coat. Mission complete with a brand new style to a older worn out treasure. Anyone who can use a paint brush can easily do this. My tip is go create with this one of a kind limestone Sharsumpaint. Beautiful results with a rewarding feeling of self gratification that all is well in the world of creation. Thank you Sharon for the insisted introduction to your paints. I love them, and the future of furniture looks bright.

TIP OF THE WEEK:   I’m finishing up the “Ombre Desk” set. The desk is finished and I’m working on the chair. Won’t be long now. The desk is in really good shape and the drawers are in great shape, too. They smell just fine. However, I’m into essential oils and I have an oil from Young Living called Cedarwood. I decided I would wipe down the drawers with a mixture of water and about 10 drops of Cedarwood. I thought that might be a perfect scent for a wooden drawer, right? It smelled so good, I put a little oil on qtips and put one in each drawer for awhile. I love opening the drawers and getting a faint whiff of Cedarwood. You might try a favorite scent in the drawers of something you are working on or purchased.

ombredeskdrawerwithcedarwood

TIP OF THE WEEK: I’ve been working on a desk today that will be for sale soon. I am so pumped on how the drawers are looking, I just had to share. They are finished with 3 coats of poly and they are gorgeous. I’m calling this desk “Gray Ombre” as the drawers are varying shades of gray using Missouri Limestone chalk-based paint. Take a look at the drawer pulls in the original photo and then again in the finished drawer photo.

I love, love, love the Missouri Limestone Chalk-based paint we have for sale at Gift Emporium and Cafe’ in Sullivan, but I also love to use other products when I find something I like. In this case, it is Amy Howard’s Home spray lacquer “White Perfection”. You can buy it at Ace Hardware Stores. It is expensive but it makes old hardware look like porcelain. The knobs on the drawers are porcelain, but metal knobs can be painted, too. Now that you have this awesome tip, just be sure to use our Missouri Limestone chalk-based paint and move on past Amy Howard’s. : )   Gift Emporium and Cafe’s facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Gift-Emporium-CAFE-194319340843

drawerpulls