The Best Black/Dark Wax over Chalk Paint Tutorial Ever! by Jan Brown Kissick

janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep7janbrownkissick_darkwaxtutorialstep27I love finding great tutorials to help me with techniques I want to learn while painting with chalk-based paints.  Sometimes you find that perfect one and think…..where was that tutorial when I needed it?? Like that time when I didn’t know what I was doing applying dark wax to a green cabinet and it turned out looking like camouflage. Raise your hand if you know what I mean.

Well, wonder no more on how to apply dark wax.  This tutorial by Jan will provide you with clear step-by-step instructions that you will want to save. Trust me… is good!

First of all I want to make it very clear this was not written by me.  I make camouflage pieces, remember?  This excellent tutorial was written by Jan Brown Kissick who has kindly given me permission to use her photos and her words to share this with all of you.

Jan wrote this tutorial in a post for a chalk painting Facebook group I belong to called Chalk Paint, Distress and Decoupage.  Good info here.  If you’d like to join, here’s the link:

I will stop rambling now and share Jan’s tutorial in her own words.


Steps I Do for a Black/Dark Wax Tutorial by Jan Brown Kissick

Ok someone has asked me to show the steps I do for black/dark wax. {EDITED: following Steps are for when using a darker color of paint and only based off of my experience with Annie Sloan products! Use clear wax first on lighter paint colors–immediately–do not let sit before starting your dark/black wax!} I’ll state that I’m definitely not a pro but I’m not brand new either. I’ve learned a lot of lessons the hard way and I’m sure there’s still more to learn! Hope this helps you all! There are captions with each picture.


1. Set up old movie on your tablet for entertainment I get tired of music so like listening to (love Audrey H!) Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


2. 1 paper plate for clear wax, 1 for black/dark Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


3. spoonful of clear wax Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


4. Spoonful of black wax Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


5. Cut down cheap chip brush –load with black wax Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


6. Scott shop towels Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


7. 2 coats of paint fully dried AS Emperors Silk. Anyone else hearing clown 🤡 music? I don’t like this red without black wax. If you do great! It’s just not me. So let’s add black wax. Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


8. Brushing on black wax in small sections-(only doing black first bc it’s a darker pigment paint color. If yours is light, then start with clear. Recommend trying small spot to see how black wax first works for you and follow remaining steps) Photos by Jan Brown Kissick


9. Looks like crap right? 💩🤣 Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


10. Tear off towel and fold into fourths ( or whatever’s comfortable for you) Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


11. Wipe off wax as much as possible turn over cloth often,otherwise you will just put wax back on. Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


12. Now get clear wax on new section of towel or get new towel. Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


13. Not a whole lot but make sure you get some! Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


14.  I “dab” the clear wax on  Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


15. Then wipe it off. Remember to turn cloth over often!! Or will create “bare spots” Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


16. Keep wiping, adding more clear wax until blended well. Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


17. Blended! (Top of arm) Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


18. Applied the black wax… Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


19. Blended! Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


20. 😳😳are you scared??? This is when you panic right???😳😳😳 Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


21. It will be okay! Keep adding clear, keep blending, remember to turn that cloth over and get new cloth! Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


22. Blending… Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


23. Okay…maybe there’s hope… Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


24. Not worrying about that bottom too much. Will have a cushion over it. Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


25. Look at that leg! 😎😎 Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


26. Ta-da!!! Done!!!! Photo by Jan Brown Kissick


27. Happy!! 😍😍😍 Photo by Jan Brown Kissick

Some addtional comments from Jan after questions on group post:

  •  If using a light color do clear wax first. If using a large surface like a table, buffet, dresser I use a wax brush for the clear to apply but always blend with cloth. Don’t want to get dark wax on your clear wax brush.
  • clear wax–if only using clear–the technique is different. Just making sure I clarify that.
  • On lighter colors…yes do clear first. Colors with more pigment should be fine with black first. Try it first as I suppose it will depend on your piece. Hope it works for you as It will save you wax!
  • want to make sure not misleading people into thinking you don’t need to do clear wax first–you will on lighter colors! Also this is only for Annie Sloan’s products. I’ve used other products in the past and I never had much luck with them. Not sure they will work the same. Thanks everyone for the great feedback. My first tutorial so I’m learning how to do this too! Next time I make up a glaze with dark wax I’ll do one for that.
  • And do small sections. Don’t let the first layer of clear dry! Right after clear, then add black, do it immediately, then add the clear.
  • wanted to add that you can break after a section, just don’t stop in the middle of the section. Hope that makes sense. In other words I did half the chair last night and half today.
  •  if you’re going to do dark/black wax too then do all at once in sections. You can stop and pause between sections but don’t pause within a section. You don’t want the black/clear to dry too much. I do sometimes come back the next day and still wipe it down again with more clear if I find streaks–it’s possible–I just say don’t stop mid-section as a rule.
  • And I do always buff pieces next day regardless if just clear or a mixture. Gets off the residue and makes them shine!
  • the wax will harden and no longer be tacky when it’s sealed. I have pieces I’ve spilled coffee with no damage and my dog threw up on a table 🤢 and it cleaned right up. No signs of any of it.
  •  I’ll do a tutorial for my next dark wax that is more of a glaze technique.

I don’t know about you, but I’m looking forward to Jan’s next tutorial!  Fingers crossed she will let me share it here, too!







How to Create a Chippy and Crackled Look with Chalk-Based Paint

Chip and Crackle techniques

Chip and Crackle techniques

I’ve been painting for a few years now with chalk-based paint.  I’ve tried out various techniques for changing the look with different types of distressing, but hadn’t done anything with creating the look of old chipped paint or a crackle finish……until now.

Let me say that both of these techniques are easy to do and inexpensive.  You don’t have to buy extra expensive products to make this happen!  To create both these looks you only need, chalk-based paint (in my case because I love it so much I sell it, Missouri Limestone Chalk-based paint) a candle, some painter’s tape (or duct tape but I like the effect of the painter’s tape better) some good old Elmer’s school glue (yes – Elmer’s glue – any kind works I’m told), a hair dryer, and your topcoat of choice.

The steps to creating these looks are easy-peasy, but I like visual step-by-step tutorials and videos, too, and so I will not only give you the step by step directions I used, I will provide the links to the visuals I used also.  If you don’t follow the videos of Debi’s Design Dairy you should.  She is very informative, easy to follow, and is just plain silly!

First of all, here’s a closer look at my completed practice pieces.  I will explain below how you can get this look, too.

chip and crackle paint

The sample on the left shows the chippy look and the one on the right is the crackle.

So, how did I do this?

Chippy Look:

Here’s the link for the visual step-by-step tutorial I used for those who like visual directions, followed by my step-by-step.  That’s the teacher in me…don’t reinvent the wheel and address various learning styles to reach all students.  : )

  1.  I painted my sample board with Missouri Limestone Company’s chalk-based paint using “Trading Post”.
  2. I let that dry then rubbed it all over with a candle…yep….a regular old candle.  Cover the board really well.  I brushed off any loose pieces of wax.
  3. Then I painted over it with the color “January”.  I only used one coat on this, but I think for a thicker, chippy look, two or three coats will give it more depth.  I used a hair dryer to speed up the drying time.
  4. Are you ready for the final step before adding the topcoat?  This was my favorite part.  The directions said to use duct tape, but I didn’t know where that was at the moment, so I just used the blue painter’s tape.  I tore off a piece and placed it on the board (I went in only one direction each time I did this), pressed it down and then ripped it off!  Yep, that’s how to create that chippy look.  Isn’t that too cool.  They said to use a new piece of tape each time, but you con’t have to.  Also, I do think duct tape is the better choice, as it would have more pulling power and with thicker paint, would pull off more for more chippiness (I believe that might be my made-up word).  Ripping that tape off that board was so much fun for some reason.  : )
  5. Final step – be sure to seal your project with your favorite topcoat.  In this case, I waxed it.  I love this look!

Crackle Look:

Here’s Debi’s Design Diary video I used for this look, followed by my step-by-step.

  1.  In the video, she uses another brand of chalk-based paint, but I use Missouri Limestone Company’s chalk-based paint.  Why?  Because I love it and sell it.  : )
  2.  I painted my board with the color “Radio Flyer” and let it dry.  You can use the hair dryer here to speed things up.  I did….I can’t wait when trying something new.
  3.  Then, following Debi’s directions, I put a coat of Elmer’s glue all over (I used Elmer’s school glue, but she says any type of glue will work, even the Dollar Store brands).  I got it thicker in some areas and thinner in others, and maybe didn’t even cover some of it.  Just play around with it.  I let it sit for a few minutes to make it tacky, but not dry. Debi recommends working in small sections on bigger pieces and making sure you don’t drip glue all over the rest of your project.  Have a rag handy to wipe off drips.
  4. The I painted a coat of the color “Zinc” on top, going in one direction only and not going back over.  That is very important.  If you go over it again, it will not crackle and it will smudge.
  5. Using a blow dryer on it at this point will speed up the drying process and help it crack even more.  Plus, it is fun to watch the magic happening.
  6. Final step – use your topcoat of choice.  I waxed mine and love the look!

Now, my most pressing questions – what will I paint, what colors will I use, and which effect will I try?  I have the answer to one of those….I’m going to try the crackle look on my next project.  Wish me luck!